The Aquarium Source

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After your tank is established, you must consider how and when you will do maintenance on your new pet project.  Sure, it has finished cycling and because you have been monitoring your chemical levels very closely you know that everything is where it should be.   But yet, it just doesn’t look right.  Is the water cloudy?  Is there algae all over the sides and on the rocks?  Is the water level not where you left it 3 days ago.  This is the time for some routine aquarium care. Fish tank maintenance can sometimes be a bother for hobbyists, but it doesn’t have to be that way. Develop a schedule for carrying out these aquarium maintenance tasks and it will make this hobby more enjoyable..

It’s important to note that you don’t need to completely break down the tank every time you have to “clean your tank”. Most of the time you will just need to perform a partial water change (20 percent or so) with a good gravel vacuuming and maybe scrape a little algae off the front viewing panel. If you have a major algae problem then something is out of whack. You may be feeding too much, your tank may be overstocked, you’re not performing frequent enough water changes, you’re feeding the wrong types of foods, etc.

There are some basic pieces of equipment you will need in order to do your routine maintenance.   Some items that you will need are: 

• Aquarium Glass Scrubber
• Aquarium Vacuum 
• 5-gallon bucket
• Some type of vacuum pump like the Python Vacuum System
• Plenty of paper towels and
• Good lighting

 Outlined below are a few steps that you will need to do to assure that your aquarium is getting the attention it deserves.

• First, develop an aquarium maintenance schedule.  You will want to clean your fish tank at least once every 2 weeks. Once a week would be even better to take care of your fish tank and it will be easier each time you clean.
• Test your water.  This is especially important if you have let the water changes get behind schedule.  If the pH or the salinity (for Marine Aquariums) is way out of normal limits, you will need to do a series of smaller, more frequent changes until the levels are at least at a tolerable level.  Remember, even if the chemicals are way out of whack, making large changes can be more harmful than the chemicals themselves.   The fish have had a chance to accommodate to the higher levels and will not be able to adjust fast enough to the new water chemistry.  Small changes in chemical levels is always best.
• Clean your fish tank.  Once you have developed a cleaning schedule, stick to it.  Consistency is the key to aquarium maintenance.  Use your algae scrubber to scrape any algae off the front and maybe the sides of the tank. For acrylic aquariums, make sure that you won’t scratch the acrylic with whatever you’re using to clean the sides. Some use an old credit card for acrylic tanks.  Do not use razor blades as this will scratch the glass and/or the acrylic surfaces.  Turn off, or better yet, unplug the power filter.  This will prevent any electrical shocks and will prevent the filter from becoming clogged with the excess debris. 
• Once the sides are clean, you can vacuum the gravel and any flat areas for any loose debris that you may have removed from the tank walls.  This is always a good time to do that partial water change.  Each time you clean your aquarium you will need to replace about 15% – 20% of the water so as to keep the naturally occurring nutrients at optimal levels and to remove those pesky nitrates that have developed as a result of waste breakdown.
• Next, check out the filter media (i.e. filter floss). If the filter media needs cleaning, you can rinse it in some of the discarded tank water. This filter media will have loads of the beneficial bacteria needed for the aquarium nitrogen cycle and rinsing it in tap water with chlorine and/or chloramines can kill some of the bacteria, so use tank water.
• Now it’s time to refill aquarium with de-chlorinated water.  Always treat the new water with the necessary amount of chemicals that will remove the chlorine and chloramines from the incoming water. Try to add water that is the same temperature as you tank water. High temperature swings would be very stressful for your tropical fish.  Take case when adding new saltwater to the marine tanks. 

For Saltwater aquariums you will want to have the mixture ready to go at least the day before you plan on doing water changes. Freshly mixed saltwater can be fairly toxic to fish and you need to allow a day or so to allow the salt mix to properly dissolve. You can use new or very, clean 5-gallon buckets or rubber trash cans for this purpose. Mix up the salt, pop in a powerhead and maybe a heater and you have saltwater ready for when you need it.

• Once a week, clean out the skimmer collection cup, scrape off any salt creep back into the tank if possible. Clean the hood but don’t scrape the salt back into the aquarium as you did with the skimmer.  The hood will contain dust and outer debris collected from the surrounding environment.
• Lastly, clean the outside of the tank with a soft cloth and water or some type of non-toxic cleaner. 

Aquarium maintenance is extremely important not only for the survival of the fish and other aquarium inhabitance, but for your continued enjoyment.  Staying on top of those water changes should increase the health of your fish.  Frequent cleaning will make it look nicer and after all, that it what we all enjoy the most.

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Ok.  So now that you know all there is to know about the nitrogen cycle, how are you going to handle the effects?

The key to having a successful aquarium habitat is testing, testing and testing.  You need to test the water on a routine basis for ammonia and nitrites, and then take action quickly when problems occur. Test kits are available for testing each of these three chemicals and well as other key elements in your tank.  Each kit will come with a guide that shows the danger zones and will offers steps to reduce these chemical before they result in loss of your fish.

Test for ammonia: With new tanks, begin testing on day three after adding the fish, and continue every day until the ammonia begins to drop. After it begins to fall, continue testing every other day until the ammonia reaches zero. It helps to plot the ammonia levels on a sheet of paper so any trends can be seen. Should ammonia reach the danger zone, (.50 ppm for fresh water and .05 ppm for saltwater) take steps indicated on the test kit chart. If at any time fish show signs of distress, such as rapid breathing (gilling), clamped fins, erratic swimming, or hanging at the surface for air, take immediate action to lower the ammonia level. Chemicals such as Ammo-Lock will quickly neutralize toxic ammonia.

Test for nitrites: Again, with new tanks, begin testing one week after adding the fish. Continue testing every second or third day, until it reaches zero. Again, it may be helpful to chart your results to indicate trends in the nitrite levels and then take the necessary steps if nitrite reaches the danger zone (1.0 PPM for Fresh water and .05 ppm with levels above .10 ppm being critical for salt water). If at any time fish show signs of distress, such as rapid breathing or hanging near the surface seemingly gasping for air, test for nitrite. If levels are elevated perform an immediate 25-50% water change and test daily until levels drop.

Test for nitrates: Nitratea are a mildly poisonous end product of the breakdown of nitrogenous waste products in the aquarium. Fresh water aquarium levels should not exceed 300 ppm. Less than 50 ppm is the desired level for saltwater aquaria. Reef tanks should be maintained at less than 5 ppm. High nitrate levels in both fresh water and saltwater aquariums will promote excessive algae growth.  Regularly, scheduled partial water changes, approxmately10%, are needed to maintain not only optimal nutrient levels, but to keep the nitrate levels in check.

What Not To Do In Case Chemical Levels Become Elevated

• Do not add more fish.  For new tanks, wait until the cycle is completed.  For established tanks, partial water changes, cleaning and the addition of commercial chemical neutralizers can help when ammonia or nitrites spike out of control.
• Do not change the filter media.  The beneficial bacteria are growing there. Don’t disturb them until they have become well established.
• Do not over feed.  Feed the fish only what they can eat in 5 min or before it hits the bottom.  When in doubt underfeed your fish. Remember that anything going into the tank will produce wastes one way or another.
• Do not try and alter the pH.  pH levels will be discussed in a different article.  Suffice it to say that the beneficial bacteria can be affected by changes in pH. Unless there is a serious problem with the pH, leave it alone.

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Some call it the biological cycle, the nitrification process, new tank syndrome or even the start-up cycle. They all are referring to the same cycle – The Nitrogen Cycle. This very important cycle is the establishment of beneficial bacteria in the aquarium and in the filter media that will help in the conversion of ammonia to nitrite and then the conversion of nitrite to nitrates.

Unlike nature, where the environment is open and has a constant supply of new, refreshed water, an aquarium is a closed environment.  All the wastes excreted from the fish, uneaten food, and decaying plants have no where to go. If there is no mechanism to handle these waste products, your beautiful aquarium and all that is in it would die in no time at all

The system that nature employs in the open eco system can also be used in a closed environment such as an aquarium.  This naturally occurring system is called the Nitrogen Cycle.  

This process can take anywhere from 2 -8 weeks or longer depending on what strategy you use to cycle your tank.  It is very important that you understand this process because it will help you to be successful in keeping fish and it should definitely improve your chances when keeping tropical fish.

The Nitrogen Cycle consists of 3 stages;  Stage 1, the production of ammonia.  Stage 2, the production of nitrite and stage 3, the production of nitrates.  Each will be discussed below.

Stage 1 – Ammonia

In Stage 1 of the cycle, ammonia is released into the aquarium from uneaten fish foods, fish wastes and other biological processes. It is easily measured using an aquarium test kit and is the first reading you’ll get at the beginning of the aquarium nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is always being released into the aquarium and adequate biological filtration is needed to prevent the life forms from suffering because it is very poisonous to fish. Ammonia is thought to be the number one killer of fish in aquariums, most likely due to aquariums going through the nitrogen cycle. Measures must be taken to assure that these level are as close to zero as possible.

Stage 2 – Nitrites

During the second stage of the Nitrogen Cycle, nitrites are produced by the breakdown of ammonia.  Nitrites are just as toxic as ammonia and must also be monitored closely. Once the bacteria in the tank have the ammonia under control, there will be a high nitrite spike. Having a sudden nitrite spike can kill a fish within a few hours.

            Controlling the nitrite levels falls more within the lines of prevention although there are steps that can be taken to reduce the nitrite risk once the spike has occurred.

•  The first step in preventing a nitrite spike is to keep your tanks clean. Seeing how the decay of food and waste will raise the chemical levels in your tank, a clean tank will help prevent the rise of un-wanted chemicals.
• The second preventative measure is to feed appropriately. Normal feeding is considered to be “only what your fish can eat in five minutes”. This will help in the prevention of food build up on the bottom of your tank.       
• A third recommended preventative measure is to test water regularly. When I first start a new tank, I usually test the water 2-3 times a day at least. This way you can keep up with any changes in tank chemistry and can keep ahead of the problem. Knowing the exact chemical levels can save you major headaches in the future.                                 

            Prevention is the best method for dealing with a nitrite spike, but in case you do have a spike here are a few ways to deal with it.

•  First you can add salt to the tank. Even though it is a fresh water tank, the amount of salt that you add will not be enough to change the salinity level of the water. The amount that you add needs to be one half ounce per gallon of water. Salt will also help fish that have been injured in a fight to heal, and fish that have parasites to get better.
• The second method for helping your fish survive a nitrite spike is to increase the oxygen level in the water. By turning up the aerator, the water will become saturated with oxygen and make it a little easier for the fish to breath.
• A third recommendation is performing a large water change. A normal water change is around 10%. By completing a large water change (30-40%) you are removing some of the contaminated water and replacing it with water free of nitrites reducing the saturation level of the nitrates.  Prior to completing any large water change, make sure to give your fish the proper chemicals that they need to increase their slime coat. This will help them remain calm during this stressful time.

Stage 3 – Nitrates

The third and final stage of the nitrogen cycle occurs as the nitrites are broken down to form nitrates. Nitrates can be naturally removed by incorporating a trickle filter system that allows the anaerobic bacteria to consume the nitrates. A high level of nitrates always results from over production of nitrites which can be very harmful to your fish and flora.

       So what is a safe nitrate level?  Nitrates are measured in Parts Per Million (ppm) and for a normal operating tank the nitrate level should be under 25-ppm. If you are having problems with algae growth and everything seems to have a green tint to it, then you need to check your nitrate level.  Algae growth is accelerated in a nitrate rich environment. Although plants use nitrates, the plants can only do so much. If there is a spike in the nitrate level, the plants may not be able to remove all of it in time. Also if you are considering breeding your fish you want to make sure that your nitrate level is 10ppm or less. This will prevent the fish from becoming sick and create a stable environment for the female’s gestation period.

There are a few simple steps that you can take to manage the nitrate level in your tank.

• The first step is regular cleaning. By removing the waste and uneaten fish food from the tank you can decrease the amount of nitrite production thereby reducing the nitrate level.
• The second step is to change your water. Performing a partial water change, around 10%, on a regular basis, is a good way to reduce the nitrate level, provided the water you are adding is low in nitrates. You can check with your local pet store for their suggestions on store bought water.
• The third method is to use live plants. The addition of live plants will reduce the amount of nitrates because plants absorb and use nitrates. If you have a high nitrate level, plants alone will not be able to get the nitrates under control quickly.           
• Another method is to use a specialized filter or filter additive. This will help control and maintain the nitrate level as long as the filters are kept fresh and clean, and they are combined with other methods of controlling the nitrate levels.

             Nitrates, in high numbers are very harmful for fish and plant life in an aquarium. Nitrates can harm the reproduction in fish and inhibit their breathing as well as cause a spike in the algae level of your tank, basically choking out the natural plants that you have growing there. As long as some basic steps are followed, it should not be difficult to control the nitrate levels in your tanks and keep all of your creatures healthy.

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Tank Selection

            There are three main areas to consider when selecting a new tank to add to your home. These three areas size, shape, and location are crucial to making your new tank a success. Each of these variables will have a direct impact on how well your tank flourishes and how much work is needed to keep your tank healthy

Size   When selecting the size of your tank you need to keep the following in mind, a larger tank is easier to maintain than a smaller one. A larger tank naturally contains more water making radical and sudden chemical spikes unlikely. A smaller tank has less water to disperse the harmful chemicals and makes the chemical build-up faster. Any of the issues that you have with the environment in a tank, such as an algae build-up will take longer to manifest due to the volume difference between a large and small tank.

            The size of your tank will also dictate what types of fish and how many of them you will be able to keep in your aquarium. The general rule of “1 gallon of water per inch of fish” applies here. In a larger tank you will be able to put a greater number of smaller fish or fish who will grow to a larger size. Certain types of fish will grow to be several inches and a larger tank will help ensure their health.

Shape      When selecting a tank that is not the normal rectangular shape, in addition to size you also need to consider maintenance. In a octagon shaped tank there are more surfaces that will need to be cleaned if there is a spike in algae. In a tank that is in a non-traditional shape, an octagonal shape will also have its limits to decorations. Most of the decorations for tanks are designed for normal rectangular tanks so you will have to consider these changes in size when purchasing a non-traditional tank shape.

Location       The location where you are going to place your new tank is an important consideration of the tank selection process. There are a few factors in placing your tank that can affect your tanks health. Factors such as placing your tank near a window or a vent can change the temperature of the tank. A window can give the tank the ample light it needs for the accelerated algae growth which will change the chemical make-up of your tank.

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An aquarium filter helps increase the quality of the water in your fish tank. By running the water through the filter, you will remove all of the waste in the tank and help keep your chemical levels stable. There are three different types of filtration that need to take place in every aquarium mechanical, biological and chemical filtration.

Mechanical Filtration
Mechanical filtration removes any free floating particles from the aquarium water, such as fish waste, and food particles.

Biological Filtration
Biological filtration is the most important aquarium filtration type. Taking place usually in a regular filter, biological filtration maintains a “colony” of good bacteria that helps regulate the ammonia level in your tank. For more information please read about the Nitrogen Cycle.

Chemical Filtration
Chemical filtration involves removing the dissolved wastes from the aquarium water. Often times this is accomplished through the use of activated carbon in the aquarium filter. Activated carbon can also help to reduce the odor that stale “used” fish tank water will have. Activated Carbon must be replaced regularly or it will re-introduce the harmful elements back into your tank that it has already filtered out.

Types of Aquarium Filters
Corner Filter
The corner filter sits inside the aquarium in one of the corners or even sticks on to the glass. Although they will require regular maintenance, these corner filters can be used for all three types of filtration. The key is not to change out the entire filter material when performing maintenance, only change out the carbon and part of the filter material.

Under-gravel Filter (UGF)
Under-gravel filters are commonly found with beginner’s aquarium kits and are not the best type of filtration that you can use. Under-gravel aquarium filters can provide good mechanical filtration because it forces the water down through the aquarium gravel where particles are trapped. The good bacteria live at the bottom of the gravel and complete the biological filtration there. Once the water has been pushed up the tube into the actual filter, the chemical filtration takes place.  

One major issue that people have with the UGF is its inability to completely filter out the particles. Once the water is being pulled down into the rock, some of the particles stay there, making it necessary to constantly vacuum the gravel. If the gravel is not vacuumed regularly, then the filter becomes clogged, making a complete cleaning necessary.

Power Filter
The power filter is probably the most popular filter type for a variety of reasons, two of which are the ease of cleaning and maintenance. There is one major drawback to this type of filter; the intake tube for the dirty aquarium water is directly below the return for the clean filtered water.

Canister Filter
Don’t get sticker shock when you look at the price on a canister filter, but they are expensive because they are good quality and they work. A canister filter usually has three different stages for filtration, depending on how the water enters the canister; the order of the stages of filters will vary. Usually the layer closest to the water entry point will be made up of sponge filters. These filters are where your initial mechanical filtration will take place. Most of the large particles will be strained out of the water in this area. The sponge will also be the place where your bacteria colony will start to form and begin cleaning the water as it passes through, stage one of your biological filtration. The second stage will usually contain activated carbon and sometimes the carbon is placed between two additional sponge filters. This area is where the majority of your chemical filtration takes place. The water will pass through the carbon and the dissolved harmful chemicals will bond to the carbon particles and will be removed when you replace the carbon. The third layer usually contains some form of bio-beads. These bio-beads are the main area for bacteria growth in your filter. Stage three is the main biological filtration area in your filter. It is IMPORTANT to remember that when you are cleaning your filter NEVER try to clean the bio beads or any similar biological filter in regular tap water. By using tap water to clean a biological filter, you will kill the good bacteria colony that has grown there. If the biological filter needs to be cleaned, use regular tap water to rinse them off and then place them back in the filter.

Protein Skimmer

There are three main styles of skimmers for aquariums, the in tank, back of tank, and sump models. Any of these models can work for you but you have to decide which will be the best for your individual set up. Just keep in mind that you will need to clean this skimmer out so it is best to place the skimmer in a place you can easily reach it.

Although a protein skimmer is virtually useless in a freshwater tank, they are on the “must have” list for a salt water aquarium. The main function of a protein skimmer is to remove dissolved materials, such as fish scales or food, from the water. Seeing how this is an expensive requirement for a salt water tank make sure you shop around at your local aquarium stores and compare prices to what you would find on the internet to get the best deal.

There are other items that you can consider and research such as powerheads and sump tanks but for starting an aquarium they are not a requirement.