The Aquarium Source

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Selecting your fish

         Selecting your fish is just as important as any other part of your tank set up. There are a few areas that you must consider when deciding what types of fish to put in your tank.

Breed

            There are many different breeds of fish for both saltwater and freshwater aquariums. Some breeds get along well with other and certain breeds can not be placed together. When selecting the breeds you are going to put into your tank, do some research on how well that species of fish with react with other species of fish. I was in a salt water fish store in Raleigh, North Carolina and I was looking to buy a Dog Face Puffer for my tank when I overheard a little boy tell his dad that he wanted the “Finding Nemo” fish tank. The dad of course told the little boy that they would get all the fish and set it up. While the little boy was looking at the different species of Clown Fish, I walked up to the dad and started talking to him about what he had just promised his son. The father was new at saltwater aquariums and hadn’t considered the fish in the “Finding Nemo” tank.

The fish depicted in the aquarium at the dentist office in “Finding Nemo” are actually very territorial and aggressive and would not survive together.  Once you decide what fish you want to have, make sure you do some research to see what else you can put in the tank. This rule goes with fresh water fish as well; certain species will not tolerate others.

Health

            The health of your new fish is very important. Make sure you watch the fish prior to purchasing it or if you are ordering fish off the internet, make sure you have a guarantee on the life of the fish. While watching the fish, note any odd behaviors such as odd swimming as this could be a sign of sickness in the fish. Inspect the fish closely for missing scales, damaged fins, or any visible parasites. Talk to the store associates and get as much information as you can about the fish like how long it has been in the tank. Another key area to look at is the tank itself. Look at the bottom for and fish parts or up at the surface or near the filters. If there are quite a few dead fish in the tank, reconsider purchasing for that tank or store. The associates might not have the chemicals under control or there could be something wrong with that tank. Some fish stores have one large sump tank to circulate the water through all of their freshwater tanks and another to circulate through their salt water. Although two basic filtration systems can save time and space it does not prevent contamination between multiple freshwater tanks. Just make sure you inspect the fish really closely and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Don’t feel that you have to purchase a fish just because you are there, it would be better to go home and not have a new addition for your aquarium, than to take one home who is sick and contaminate your home set up.

Sex

            The sex of your fish is also an important choice if you are planning on breeding your fish or in a “two males can not be put together” scenario. Certain species of fish, such as Betta’s, are easy to tell apart. The males are vibrant with long flowing fins and the females are a dull grey or brown color. Other species are much harder to tell the difference and if you are not familiar with this process it can be very confusing. It is best to talk to your supplier and find out which is which. Once you are familiar with the species that you have it will be easy to tell the difference. An advanced way to tell is by a process called venting. This is somewhat traumatic for the fish because it requires you to physically touch the fish and turn them over to look at their reproductive organs. Again, unless you are familiar with the fish and this process, just leave it to the “professionals”.

Aggression and Predation

            The aggression and predation rating on your fish is very important. When you are looking at your fish to purchase, a pet store will usually offer a rating of each species of fish. This rating changes from store to store but the general information is the same. The rating will contain information about what species of fish your new fish will get along with, general behavior information (is my fish territorial but not generally aggressive?), how much and what type of food to feed it and other pieces of information about size and growth. If you are going to set up a tank with predator fish purchasing aggressive fish will be ok, provided that they do not eat the other predators in the tank. If, however you want a nice calm tank, then a predator is not for you. Also if you are going to have coral, live plants, or certain types of invertebrates in your tank, there are certain species of fish that will attack and feed on these items. Make sure you understand your new fish prior to putting it in the tank.

Food

            Food is also an important decision in fish selection. Consider what you will need to purchase to feed your fish. Is it simply fish flakes? Does your fish need pellets? Sinking wafers? Is my fish a predator that I am going to have to feed live feeder fish too? All of these items are important when choosing your fish. If you are choosing predators then it is best to set up a separate tank for the feeder fish.

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Tank Selection

            There are three main areas to consider when selecting a new tank to add to your home. These three areas size, shape, and location are crucial to making your new tank a success. Each of these variables will have a direct impact on how well your tank flourishes and how much work is needed to keep your tank healthy

Size   When selecting the size of your tank you need to keep the following in mind, a larger tank is easier to maintain than a smaller one. A larger tank naturally contains more water making radical and sudden chemical spikes unlikely. A smaller tank has less water to disperse the harmful chemicals and makes the chemical build-up faster. Any of the issues that you have with the environment in a tank, such as an algae build-up will take longer to manifest due to the volume difference between a large and small tank.

            The size of your tank will also dictate what types of fish and how many of them you will be able to keep in your aquarium. The general rule of “1 gallon of water per inch of fish” applies here. In a larger tank you will be able to put a greater number of smaller fish or fish who will grow to a larger size. Certain types of fish will grow to be several inches and a larger tank will help ensure their health.

Shape      When selecting a tank that is not the normal rectangular shape, in addition to size you also need to consider maintenance. In a octagon shaped tank there are more surfaces that will need to be cleaned if there is a spike in algae. In a tank that is in a non-traditional shape, an octagonal shape will also have its limits to decorations. Most of the decorations for tanks are designed for normal rectangular tanks so you will have to consider these changes in size when purchasing a non-traditional tank shape.

Location       The location where you are going to place your new tank is an important consideration of the tank selection process. There are a few factors in placing your tank that can affect your tanks health. Factors such as placing your tank near a window or a vent can change the temperature of the tank. A window can give the tank the ample light it needs for the accelerated algae growth which will change the chemical make-up of your tank.

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An aquarium filter helps increase the quality of the water in your fish tank. By running the water through the filter, you will remove all of the waste in the tank and help keep your chemical levels stable. There are three different types of filtration that need to take place in every aquarium mechanical, biological and chemical filtration.

Mechanical Filtration
Mechanical filtration removes any free floating particles from the aquarium water, such as fish waste, and food particles.

Biological Filtration
Biological filtration is the most important aquarium filtration type. Taking place usually in a regular filter, biological filtration maintains a “colony” of good bacteria that helps regulate the ammonia level in your tank. For more information please read about the Nitrogen Cycle.

Chemical Filtration
Chemical filtration involves removing the dissolved wastes from the aquarium water. Often times this is accomplished through the use of activated carbon in the aquarium filter. Activated carbon can also help to reduce the odor that stale “used” fish tank water will have. Activated Carbon must be replaced regularly or it will re-introduce the harmful elements back into your tank that it has already filtered out.

Types of Aquarium Filters
Corner Filter
The corner filter sits inside the aquarium in one of the corners or even sticks on to the glass. Although they will require regular maintenance, these corner filters can be used for all three types of filtration. The key is not to change out the entire filter material when performing maintenance, only change out the carbon and part of the filter material.

Under-gravel Filter (UGF)
Under-gravel filters are commonly found with beginner’s aquarium kits and are not the best type of filtration that you can use. Under-gravel aquarium filters can provide good mechanical filtration because it forces the water down through the aquarium gravel where particles are trapped. The good bacteria live at the bottom of the gravel and complete the biological filtration there. Once the water has been pushed up the tube into the actual filter, the chemical filtration takes place.  

One major issue that people have with the UGF is its inability to completely filter out the particles. Once the water is being pulled down into the rock, some of the particles stay there, making it necessary to constantly vacuum the gravel. If the gravel is not vacuumed regularly, then the filter becomes clogged, making a complete cleaning necessary.

Power Filter
The power filter is probably the most popular filter type for a variety of reasons, two of which are the ease of cleaning and maintenance. There is one major drawback to this type of filter; the intake tube for the dirty aquarium water is directly below the return for the clean filtered water.

Canister Filter
Don’t get sticker shock when you look at the price on a canister filter, but they are expensive because they are good quality and they work. A canister filter usually has three different stages for filtration, depending on how the water enters the canister; the order of the stages of filters will vary. Usually the layer closest to the water entry point will be made up of sponge filters. These filters are where your initial mechanical filtration will take place. Most of the large particles will be strained out of the water in this area. The sponge will also be the place where your bacteria colony will start to form and begin cleaning the water as it passes through, stage one of your biological filtration. The second stage will usually contain activated carbon and sometimes the carbon is placed between two additional sponge filters. This area is where the majority of your chemical filtration takes place. The water will pass through the carbon and the dissolved harmful chemicals will bond to the carbon particles and will be removed when you replace the carbon. The third layer usually contains some form of bio-beads. These bio-beads are the main area for bacteria growth in your filter. Stage three is the main biological filtration area in your filter. It is IMPORTANT to remember that when you are cleaning your filter NEVER try to clean the bio beads or any similar biological filter in regular tap water. By using tap water to clean a biological filter, you will kill the good bacteria colony that has grown there. If the biological filter needs to be cleaned, use regular tap water to rinse them off and then place them back in the filter.

Protein Skimmer

There are three main styles of skimmers for aquariums, the in tank, back of tank, and sump models. Any of these models can work for you but you have to decide which will be the best for your individual set up. Just keep in mind that you will need to clean this skimmer out so it is best to place the skimmer in a place you can easily reach it.

Although a protein skimmer is virtually useless in a freshwater tank, they are on the “must have” list for a salt water aquarium. The main function of a protein skimmer is to remove dissolved materials, such as fish scales or food, from the water. Seeing how this is an expensive requirement for a salt water tank make sure you shop around at your local aquarium stores and compare prices to what you would find on the internet to get the best deal.

There are other items that you can consider and research such as powerheads and sump tanks but for starting an aquarium they are not a requirement.

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Nitrite is considerably more lethal to fish than its closely named nitrate. There is a common cycle to understand here. Ammonia is turned into nitrite and then nitrite is turned into nitrate. Once the bacteria in the tank has the ammonia under control, there will be a high nitrite spike and once that level is contained there will be a high nitrate spike.  Nitrite is the cause of Nitrite poisoning or Brown Blood Disease that can happen in your fish. Basically your fish’s blood looses the ability to carry oxygen and it will suffocate. Having a very quick onset, nitrite can kill a fish within a few hours.

            Controlling nitrite levels falls more on the lines of prevention although there are steps that can be taken to reduce the nitrite risk once the spike has occurred.

            The first step in preventing a nitrite spike is to keep your tanks clean. Seeing how the decay of food and waste will raise the chemical levels in your tank, a clean tank will help prevent the rise of un-wanted chemicals.

            The second preventative measure is to feed appropriately. A normal feeding is considered to be “only what your fish can eat in five minutes”. This will help in the prevention of food build up on the bottom of your tank.       

            A third recommended preventative measure is to test water regularly. When I first start a new tank, I usually test the water 2-3 times a day at least. This way I am aware of any changes in the tank and I can get ahead of the problem so to speak. Knowing the exact levels of the chemicals can save you major headaches in the future.           

            Prevention is the best method for dealing with a nitrite spike, but in case you do have a spike here are a few ways to deal with it.

            First you can add salt to the tank. Even though it is a fresh water tank, the amount of salt that you add will not be enough to change the salinity level of the water. The amount that you add needs to be one half ounce per gallon of water. Salt will also help fish that have been injured in a fight to heal, and fish that have parasites to get better.

            The second method for helping your fish survive a nitrite spike is to increase the oxygen level in the water. By turning up the aerator, the water will become saturated with oxygen and make it a little easier for the fish to breath.

            A third recommendation is completing a large water change. A normal water change is around 10%. By completing a large water change (30-40%) you are removing some of the contaminated water and replacing it with water free of nitrites reducing the saturation or the poison. Prior to completing any large water change, make sure to give your fish the proper chemicals that they need to increase their slime coat. This will help them remain calm during this stressful time.

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Nitrates

            Nitrates come from a few different areas in the tank, such as excess food at the bottom of the tank, a dirty filter, decaying plant material, and sometimes even the water that we use to fill the tank. All of these areas contribute to high nitrate levels and should be managed to keep your nitrate levels as low as possible.

            So what is a safe nitrate level? Nitrates are measured in ppm or Parts Per Million, and for a normal operating tank the nitrate level should be under 25-ppm. If you are having problems with algae growth and everything seems to have a green tint to it, then you need to check your nitrate level. Algae growth is accelerated in a nitrate rich environment. Although plants use nitrates, the plants can only do so much. If there is a spike in the nitrate level, the plants may not be able to remove all of it in time. Also if you are considering breeding your fish you want to make sure that your nitrate level is 10ppm or less. This will prevent the fish from becoming sick and create a stable environment for the female’s gestation period.

There are a few simple steps that you can take to manage the nitrate level in your tank.

            The first step is regular cleaning. By removing the waste and uneaten fish food from the tank you are preventing these contributors from adding to the nitrate level.

            The second step is to change your water. Changing out some of the water in your tank, around 10%, is a good way to reduce the nitrate level, providing the water you are adding is low in nitrates. You can check with your local pet store for their suggestions on store bought water.

            A common third step is cutting back on the amount of food that you feed your fish. Decaying food or waste in the bottom of the tank is a common culprit for high nitrate levels. By reducing the amount of food, you cut back on the amount of food and decaying waste on the bottom. This paired with regular cleaning and water changes should keep your nitrates under control.

            The fourth method is to use live plants. The addition of live plants will reduce the amount of nitrates because plants absorb and use nitrates. If you have a high nitrate level, plants alone will not be able to get the nitrates under control quickly.           

            Another method is to use a specialized filter or filter additive. This will help control and maintain the nitrate level as long as the filters are kept fresh and clean, and they are combined with other methods of controlling the nitrate levels.

            Nitrates, in high numbers are very harmful for fish and plant life in an aquarium. Nitrates can harm the reproduction in fish and inhibit their breathing as well as cause a spike in the algae level of your tank, basically choking out the natural plants that you have growing there. As long as some basic steps are followed, it should not be difficult to control the nitrate levels in your tanks and keep all of your creatures healthy.