Keeping your aquarium at constant temperature is essential for maintaining good aquatic health.  A tank that is too warm promotes algae growth and a tank that is too cold encourages growth of parasites.   Below is a general guide for determining the size heater you will need to keep your aquarium at a constant temperature.

Instructions:
Subtract the average temperature of the room the aquarium is located in from the temperature you wish to maintain the aquarium water at. Find the size of your aquarium in the left hand column and move to the column that shows the number of degrees the aquarium needs to be heated. If the heating requirement is between levels, move up to the next larger size.

In larger tanks, or where the room temperature is significantly below the desired water temperature, two heaters may be required. Heaters should be installed at opposite ends of the aquarium to heat it more evenly.

Example:
Average Room Temp = 68 degrees F
Desired Water Temp = 77 degrees F
—————————————–
Heating required =  9 degrees F

Tank Size = 20 gallon
Heater size needed = 50 watt

 
Remember, this is a only a guide.  Feel free to contact us  if you have questions about this chart.  If you are interested in puchasing a heating system for your tank, please take a look at our wide selection of heaters at Gredens.com

Understanding Your Fish Tank Water Hardness

            We have all seen the instructions on testing kits that tell us how to test for certain chemicals in the tank but sometimes we are not exactly sure what we are testing and why. In this article I will cover the two basic types of water hardness which are General Hardness (GH) and Carbonate Hardness (KH).

            General Hardness (GH) is a test that measures the amount of Calcium (Ca²⁺) and Magnesium (Mg²⁺) that has dissolved in your freshwater tank. Hard water, testing at > 200 ppm, is high in both Calcium and Magnesium. Soft water, testing between 50-100 ppm is low in these minerals. It is important to know that a special saltwater test is required for saltwater aquariums because the ions of Calcium and Magnesium are higher than the testing ranges for most test.

            The general hardness of your tank can increase over time and so it is important to check the water level continuously. As water evaporates it leaves behind the metal elements which increase the general hardness, when water is added more metals are added to the tank further increasing the hardness. Adjusting the level of your water hardness can be as simple as completing partial water changes using deionized water or adding a water softener “pillow” to the filter to reduce the hardness, or by using specialized salt to increase the hardness.

            Different types of fish require certain hardness levels and the following is small listing of fish and some plants along with their hardness requirements.

30ppm- Discus, arowanas, elephant nose, neons and cardinals.

60ppm- Certain Tropical fish, angelfish, tetras, botia, and community aquariums.

120ppm- Certain Tropical fish, swordtails, guppies, mollies, cichlids and certain goldfish.

180ppm- African Cichlids and certain goldfish.

            Carbonate Hardness (KH) is also known as Alkalinity and is the measure of Carbonate (CO₃²) and Bicarbonate (HCO₃). This type of hardness helps to stabilize the pH in your aquarium and with a high level (> 200ppm) your aquarium will have a high pH. In low levels, your tank water will be acidic and you will experience rapid shifts in pH. Carbonate is used by aquarium plants and consumed in the filter so this level will need to be maintained or it will fall and become unstable.

           Reducing you Carbonate Hardness is as simple as doing a partial water change and using distilled or deionized water. Increasing can be done by using a pH adjuster

            The following are acceptable levels for the listed fish. Please check the levels for your individual fish.

40ppm- Discus, arowanas, elephant nose, neons and cardinals.

80ppm- Certain Tropical fish, angelfish, tetras, botia, and community aquariums.

120ppm- Certain Tropical fish, swordtails, guppies, mollies, cichlids and certain goldfish.

180ppm- African Cichlids, certain goldfish brackish water and certain marine fish.

240ppm- Rift Lake Cichlids, certain goldfish, brackish water and certain marine fish.

When I first started out with aquariums I was unsure about everything and even though I wanted to do things right I was a little confused about the job and importance that every piece played. Take aeration for instance, I remember specifically asking the owner of the pet store that I was in if I really needed aeration, and what it did for the tank. The reply that he gave could have been correct and he was the one who worked in the pet store so I had no reason not to trust him. The reply that I received was that aeration was only to make the tank look good and I really didn’t need it for my fish to live. Now as a kid who was just learning about tanks and aquariums this sounded good to me, I wasn’t trying to win any contest for how good my tank looked, I just wanted happy healthy fish. The knowledge that one learns through experience is better than anything, so here are a few simple basic facts about aeration.

Fish need air to live-  It is true that fish live underwater (just seeing if you are awake), but they breath air. When the water passes over their gills, the oxygen is “sifted” out of the water and passed into their “lungs”.  Fish do not have lungs like we have but clean oxygen is EXTREMELY important. The water that the fish has already removed the oxygen from is now lighter than the rest of the water in the tank and so it rises to the surface (this is where you get the surface exchange of gasses). Once at the surface and the gasses are exchanged the water particles are the same weight as the rest of the water in the tank and they are recirculated. This process continues and you have the water circulation in your tank. This process is not an extremely fast one and if the original exchange was the only “bad” air in the tank it would not be so bad. However through the natural nitrogen cycle harmful chemicals are continously produced, circulated and removed from the water in your tank by the filtration system and the “good” bacteria that is growing there. The chemicals produced by this cycle are also in the water and are harmful to the fish. When you think about all of the water in your tank and then think about the top of the water, where the surface gasses are exchanged, the top is a relatively small surface area for this gas exchange to take place. If the only water movement in your tank is coming from a filter then that is not enough movement to effectively remove the harmful gasses from the water. Imagine living in a sealed room where 10 particles of harmful gas was added to the air every minute and only 5 particles of harmful gas were taken out in that same time. Eventually you would get sick and die from breathing in the harmful gasses. Its the same concept. Now take a air hose that pumps in clean air into that room and thats what an aerator does. It helps oxygenate the water that the fish lives in.

An Aerator infuses water with air- In addition to having a really neat affect on your aquarium, the aerator actually speeds up the exchange process. When all of those bubbles reach the surface they cause the water at the surface to move making the gas exchange happen faster. Also by bringing in fresh clean air into the bottom of the tank, “dirty” water particles that come in contact with these air bubbles have an underwater gas exchange with the air bubble and are cleaned. By starting this process from the bottom of the tank there is actually more clean water throughout the tank.

Water movement is very important and that leads into an entirly different article about wave makers, pumps and powerheads.

Suffice it to say that your fish WILL live without an aerator FOR A LITTLE WHILE. Once the gas reaches toxic levels your fish will die. Even with an aerator your aquarium water will need help, that is why you treat it with chemicals and complete water changes. You have to help the aquarium live and survive. An aerator is a great option and when you consider the amount of time that you will be spending working on your tank it only makes sense to get something that is going to help you out. Gredens has many aerators as well as many bubble stones and several bubble makers under decorations. Click hereto be taken to Gredens home page.

     Many people who have aquariums are faced with the issue of what will happen to the fish when they go on vacation. Who will feed them? Some aquarium owners have friends come over while they are gone and feed the fish and while this is a good way to make sure your fish receive the food they need there are a few problems with this method. Is that person reliable? Can you count on them to take good care of the fish? Do they know how much food your fish need and how many times a day? What will happen if your friend can not make it to take care of the fish?  And the most basic question, Does that person know what the fish eat?

     Assuming you have prepared the person in the care of your aquarium then most of these questions need not be asked. However if there is any doubt in your mind then you might seek other options.

     The Rena Lg100 Automatic Feeder is one of these options. Basically, an automatic feeder does just what it’s name implies.   This is a machanical feeder that can be programmed to feed your fish up to 8 times a day, if you desire, while you are away. The great thing about an automatic feeder is that it will feed your fish even when you are home so there is no need to feed all the time. Lets face it, with life in general anyone can forget to feed their fish once in a while. Usually what happens in that situation is we over feed for the next meal to make up for the one that was missed. While our intentions are good in overfeeding we can actually do more damage to the aquarium instead of “treating” the fish to a little extra.

      Extra food that is not eaten will sit on the floor of the aquarium and start to decay, changing the chemical levels in the aquarium. Also by over feeding your fish will eat a little more causing them to deficate more and that changes the chemical levels as well. Rotting food can cause more issues than people realize. So instead of giving the fish an extra pinch of food as a way to say your sorry, it is better to avoid the situation entirely.

     The Rena Lg100 Auto Feeder has a capacity to hold approximately 4 ounces of food and is uesd for many types of dry fish food. With this type of storage, you will only need to refill your food canister and not wory about constantly feeding the fish. A great detail that has been added to the Rena Auto Feeder is the addition of an air nozzel that leads into the food storage chamber. This air nozzel makes it possible to hook a air line up from the air pump to constantly circulate air in the chamber preventing the food from getting moist and clumping together.

     The amount of food that is to be dispensed can be easily programmed and adjusted to accomidate the number and size of fish that you have in your aquarium. So there is no need to worry about dispensing food for many fish when you only have a few. Again that would take us back to overfeeding. The auto feeder can also be attached to the tank for permanent or temporary use. Making this auto feeder great for switching tanks if you need to. Measuring 3-1/2″ x 5-1/2″ x 4″ high and including light sensors to activate or deactivate when needed this Rena Lg100 Automatic Feeder makes for the perfect aquarium companion.

This product along with other great items can be found by clicking here.

Aquarium Substrates
When setting up a new aquarium you generally have two objectives in mind.  First, you want the aquarium to be appealing to the eyes and second, you want it to thrive.  In order for it to be appealing, you have to select plants, rocks and other decorations to suit your taste.  To keep your tank thriving, you have to make sure the chemicals are all balanced, and that you are supplying an environment that is as close to nature as possible.  It’s a balancing act to which you will have to follow. 

It’s easy to pick out colorful decorations and little plastic divers that blow air bubbles.  But most of the time, little or no attention is given to the bottom substrate.  Whether it is sand, gravel, soil, clay or some other type of decorative substance, it is vital to your new miniature underwater system that you choose the correct substrate for your type of aquarium.  Unknown to most people is that the layer of gravel and materials (aka substrate) which lies quietly at the bottom of the aquarium plays a vital role in the initial biologic cycling and then in maintaining a healthy environment for the fish and plants which live there.

Aquarium substrate serves several purposes. Primarily, it serves as a decorative touch for those who view the aquarium. It also gives the aquarium a finished look, and can be quite colorful or naturally toned. However, one of the most important roles is that it keeps the fish healthy and is also good for plants.

Aside from its esthetics, aquarium substrate provides a haven for the beneficial bacteria.  The type of substrate you should use varies with the type of aquarium that you have as some substrates are not always good for plants.

In a fish only aquarium the substrate should be no more than two inches deep. The substrate may be of any size unless you have fish that are bottom feeders, where you should consider using finer gravel. Care must be taken when it comes to the depth of substrate, especially when using a fine grade. Deeper substrates do not get oxygenated very well, and it is there where old food particles will rot and produce a toxic substance known as hydrogen sulfite.  This gas is normally produced at such a slow rate that it doesn’t have much if any affect on the fish.  However, if allowed to build up over time, the hydrogen sulfite starts to pose a greater threat. At that point, just moving objects in your tank around or stirring up the gravel will release the gas and can be potentially toxic to your fish.

If you’re planning a planted aquarium, it is best to have two individual layers of substrate.  The bottom layer should consist of a substrate which is nutrient enriched for beautiful and hardy plant life. Vermiculite is an example of a good bottom layer for your planted tank. It has properties which allow it to slowly release nutrients over time, making it ideal for this purpose. This lower layer should be high enough to cover the roots of the plants, up to two inches.

As for the top layer, you can use regular gravel or even sand will do nicely, and it should be one and a half to two inches in height.

So what is best for your aquarium substrate?   Will first, you should never use any of the highly colorful painted gravel.  The paint can be highly toxic to your fish if it were to flake off and be eaten.  You should also avoid using material that has a reflective quality to it.  Fish use the substrate as a mean to keep their balance and equilibrium.  It helps the fish to determine what is up and what is down.  Fish can become disoriented by a clear bottomed aquarium or by substrate that reflects light. 

There are three main substrate attributes you should consider in relation to the fish you choose to keep; color, particle size and reactivity with the water.

Aquarium Gravel
Gravel should be chosen for its smooth edges and inert chemical nature. Such gravels will not injure startled fish or dissolve into the aquarium water.

The gravel size is also important. 3 to 4mm is an excellent size to allow adequate water flow through the aquarium substrate. In doing so the water can be cleaned through biological filtration as beneficial bacteria feed on dissolved fish wastes. Gravel larger than 4mm will allow sufficient water flow, but it cannot provide the surface area offered by smaller grades.

Aquarium Sand
Sand as an aquarium substrate is useful with delicate bottom feeding fish. By using sand instead of gravel these delicate appendages will not be damaged as the fish scavenges for food.

The biggest problem with sand as an aquarium substrate is its fine diameter. When placed thickly on the aquarium floor, areas can form where there is no water circulation. In these anaerobic conditions no biological filtration can be achieved. If sand is the aquarium substrate you choose, be sure to use it in a thinner layer to reduce this problem.

The fine particle size is also problematic when cleaning the substrate. If water is siphoned from the bottom using a hose or gravel cleaner the sand will be lost with the removed water.

Natural Coral
Coral is made of calcium carbonate which steadily dissolves in the aquarium water. As the coral dissolves it counteracts the acidifying processes associated with decay of food and the release of fish waste. This pH buffering quality makes coral sand a very practical aquarium substrate for fish that enjoy hard water and a higher pH.

This product is more expensive than gravel and will not hide dirt due to its light color. The very light color can also be distressing to fish, especially when illuminated with strong lighting. Without dark surroundings the aquarium inhabitants can feel unsettled. They may become stressed and lose their natural color in an attempt to blend with the bright surroundings.

Marble Chip
Marble chip is another calcium carbonate based fish tank substrate. It does not have the same structure as the porous natural coral. This makes marble chip heavier and gives it less surface area than coral sand. Because of the reduced surface area, the buffering quality is less and there are fewer sites for biological filtration to be performed.

On the positive side marble chip is a less expensive aquarium substrate than natural coral and is available in shades other than white.

A few points to consider
Before using any substrate material, it should be thoroughly washed.  Fine particles need to be rinsed away or they will become suspended in the water causing cloudiness.

Many gravels and sands can be purchased from garden centers at a more reasonable price than pet shops.

When filling the aquarium with water disturbing the aquarium substrate is not only not welcome but can be hazardous. This can be avoided by placing a plate on the gravel or sand before pouring in the water.

One of the best preventative measures to guard against this is to gently mix the aquarium substrate on a regular basis, thereby releasing the gas before it builds to deadly proportions. Aquarium owners can also use nature itself to fight the problem by placing Trumpet Snails into the tank. These little helpers will burrow through the aquarium substrate, creating a situation where the gas is vented on a regular basis. This also gives the substrate better aeration, preventing build up.

What is a UV Sterilizer?
An Ultra Violet Sterilizer is a water filtration device that uses an ultraviolet light bulb to kill microscopic organisms that are free floating in the water. Parasites, viruses, algae and bacteria (good and bad) are the type of things that are “killed” after passing through the ultraviolet sterilizing unit. These sterilizer units are also sometimes used in outdoor ponds to help control algae growth and they seem to do a decent job.

When using one in a home aquarium, the UV unit should be placed last in the filtration line. You want to first filter the aquarium water through your mechanical filter and then run the water through the UV device before returning the water to your fish tank. By first removing the solids in the aquarium water with your mechanical filter (canister filter, etc), you are helping your UV unit to attain maximum operational efficiency.

The effectiveness of any UV sterilizer is determined by the UV bulb wattage, the age of the UV bulb, how clean the quartz sleeve is and the flow rate of the unit.

UV Light Bulb
The effectiveness of the bulb will diminish with time and use. Manufacturers usually recommend replacing the bulb after 6 months. You can find units with bulbs anywhere from 8 watts up to as high as 130 watts. The higher the wattage of the light, generally the more effective it is. If you have a unit with a lower wattage then you will want to have a lower flow rate to get the most out of the unit.

UV Flow Rate
The flow rate of the unit is an important consideration. Flow rate is measured in gallons per hour (gph) or liters per hour (lph). While higher flow rates may be acceptable for killing algae and some bacteria, you will usually need a much slower flow rate to kill parasites. For example, a 15 watt bulb will usually kill algae and bacteria with a 120 gph flow, but you will need to lower the flow rate to around 75 gph for it to effectively kill parasites. Read the manufacturers recommendations for your particular unit for effective bulb wattage and flow rates.

Keep the Quartz Sleeve Clean
One thing that some hobbyists forget about is the quartz sleeve that the UV bulb slips into. You must clean this quartz sleeve periodically to remove any buildup in order to keep your sterilizer operating at peak efficiency. The better sterilizer units have a wiper with a handle outside the unit that allows you to quickly and easily clean the sleeve without taking the sterilizer apart.

Do I really need an Ultra Violet Sterilizer for my aquarium?
For indoor freshwater fish tanks that are well filtered and properly maintained, you really don’t need one. Saltwater hobbyists may have a good excuse for getting one because of the high price tags for many of the saltwater species. However, most hobbyists really don’t need one if they are doing things properly. Doing things properly would mean using a quarantine fish tank for new arrivals and performing frequent fish tank maintenance.

Outdoor pond keepers may want to invest in a UV sterilizer to help control algae problems in their outdoor ponds. To view several UV Sterilizers please go to Gredens link on UV Sterilizers and look around for other great items.

In the article, The Nitrogen Cycle, I talked about the how nature provides for a way to naturally clean the waste from your fish tank.  Unfortunately, the bi-products of this process creates chemicals that can adversely affect your fish and other tank inhabitants.  These bi-products, Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates are very important in maintaining a healthy aquarium eco system.  However, there are other chemicals that are just as important and that also require monitoring to ensure a healthy aquarium.  Anyone wanting to be successful at keeping a tropical aquarium must put forth the time necessary to understand some basic fish tank water chemistry. This will help your fish to not only survive but thrive!

If you want your aquarium (freshwater or saltwater) to thrive, then you’ll need to know how to test your tank water with an aquarium water test kit. There are many chemical tests kits on the market that will test for each of the following:   

• Ammonia
• Nitrite
• Nitrate
• Salinity/Specific Gravity
• pH
• Carbonate Water Hardness
• Alkalinity
• Chlorine and Chloramine
• Copper
• Phosphate
• Dissolved Oxygen
• And others

Some of these kits group a few of the more common tests into a “Master Test Kit.”   Buying these Master Kits can same you a little money as buy each individually can be expensive.  For most casual hobbyists, these master test kits will be sufficient. However, lf you plan to have live flora or a marine aquarium, you may need to invest in additional specialized mini test kits such as copper, phosphate, dissolved oxygen, etc.

Most kits come with a color coded results strip that you either dip into a sample of the tank water then compare to a color chart or you mix the test with a sample of the water in a test tube and then compare to a color chart. Both methods work well.  However, it can sometimes be difficult to match the test color to the color chart.  It can sometimes be helpful to get a second opinion to help match the colors.    

The Master Test Kits usually contain tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.  However, each tech can be purchased separately as replacements.  The following list will contain the chemical you need to test for and a corresponding kit.  I will try to present kits from both a high and low price range and will include which type of media it will test (Fresh or Salt Water).

Alkalinity / pH
pH test kits may test only the range that is relevant to certain freshwater or saltwater environments, so make sure you get the right one. Significant pH changes are fatal, and can be prevented with stable alkalinity. Regular use of pH and alkalinity test kits is the only way to spot trends and problems that need to be immediately addressed.

pH varies slightly over time; we recommend testing at the same time of day, every 2 weeks or more frequently if establishing a new tank. When bringing home new fish, compare the pH of its old water to yours, and slowly acclimate it to its new habitat

It is possible to raise or lower your pH levels with water changes or chemicals (use extreme caution!) from your local pet store. However, I do not recommend this.  Below are a few suggestions for naturally changing your tank pH.

• If you need to raise the pH in your tank, try doing a partial water change with water that has been aerating for several hours.  Doing this can raise the pH of the tap water significantly. 
• Gravel, depending on the type, can raise or lower your tank’s pH. Any decor like corals or fossils hikes your tank’s hardness and hence your tank’s pH.
• Decorations like driftwood or bogwood can lower pH.
• High nitrate levels lowers pH. However, don’t use high nitrate levels as a means of reducing pH. High nitrate levels are highly stressful to fish.
• Water maintained under higher temperature also tends to be acidic.
• If you have a live flora, you can observe considerable pH fluctuations during day and night hours. When there is light, plants carry out photosynthesis, taking in carbon-dioxide and giving out oxygen. This raises your tank’s pH. At night, plants respire, taking in oxygen and giving out carbon-dioxide. This reduces pH.  This is why it is important to take pH measurements at the same relative time of day.  Otherwise, you may detect these naturally occurring changes in pH.
• Pumping in carbon-dioxide for the well-being of plants also lowers water pH.

Ammonia/Nitrites/Nitrates
These chemical are the result of fish waste and decomposing food in the aquarium and are bi-products of the Nitrogen Cycle.  Do not minimize these tests.  Ammonia/Nitrites are the leading killer of tropical fish. Nitrates can significantly change the pH of your tank and can cause overwhelming algae blooms. In a new aquarium you will see a spike in first ammonia and then nitrites.  This is normal and both will eventually come down.  You want to keep Ammonia and Nitrites at or very near zero.  If you notice constantly high levels for theses chemicals, first do partial water change and then examine your biological filter as something is not working correctly.  Nitrates are not a toxic as ammonia or nitrites, but they are harmful and will stress your fish at high enough levels.  The only way to reduce nitrates is through partial water changes. 

Chlorine /Chloramine
Tap water contains chlorine or chloramine (chloramine is more aggressive but essentially the same thing) for sterilization purposes. Chlorine and chloramine are toxic to aquatic life and cause immense stress and damage. Use chlorine and chloramine test kits to test your tap water before setting up a tank or doing a water change – if you have either, use chlorine removers.

Copper
High levels of copper are toxic to aquatic life, but is necessary in the treatment of certain parasites.  You will need to use copper test kits whenever you use copper-based medications to make sure levels don’t get too high. (Use a quarantine tank to prevent problems in your main tank.) Once treatment is complete, you can use activated carbon to filter any copper out. Copper should not be used or evident in aquariums with invertebrates or planted aquariums.

This cooper can also be found in tap water if you have older copper pipes.  So be sure to test any new water used in water changes before adding to the tank.

Dissolved Oxygen
Oxygen test kits tell you how much dissolved oxygen there is in your aquarium water. Fishes need oxygen to live, and any aquarium needs proper aeration. Large tanks can suffer “dead zones” – areas that aren’t getting oxygen – without adequate water circulation. Water pumps provide the most circulation; in a large tank you may need an air pump too, or an aerating water pump. Smaller tanks can often get by on an air pump alone.

Use oxygen test kits weekly if you have a large bio-load or a large tank, or to make sure your aeration setup is adequate.

Phosphate
Phosphate can be introduced to your aquarium mainly from tap water, dead plants and fish food. High phosphate levels can cause algae outbreaks. There are products on the market to remove phosphates and you can do your part by keeping up with your aquarium maintenance and performing regular water changes.

Salinity
Aquarium hydrometers and refractometers measure the specific gravity (density) of water, which is determined by the amount of salt saturation. Refractometers are more expensive, but also more accurate, so they are a good investment for the committed saltwater aquarist. Keep your salinity constant by replacing evaporated water regularly. (Don’t use saltwater for top-offs, only water changes – salt doesn’t evaporate.)

Water Hardness
The hardness level of water has to do with the amount of minerals that are dissolved in the water. Calcium and magnesium are the primary minerals that are dissolved in tap water. “Soft” water has relatively few dissolved minerals whereas “hard” water has many dissolved minerals. Water hardness is not really an issue unless your water is excessively soft. Then you may have problems with runaway pH levels. For saltwater aquariums this is especially true. The carbonate hardness of saltwater can give you a good indication of how stable your pH is.

Proper hardness creates the right environment for your organisms, and affects pH stability. In reef aquariums, calcium processing requires a higher GH.  To increase hardness, use buffers or add crushed coral or limestone to your tank or filter.

After your tank is established, you must consider how and when you will do maintenance on your new pet project.  Sure, it has finished cycling and because you have been monitoring your chemical levels very closely you know that everything is where it should be.   But yet, it just doesn’t look right.  Is the water cloudy?  Is there algae all over the sides and on the rocks?  Is the water level not where you left it 3 days ago.  This is the time for some routine aquarium care. Fish tank maintenance can sometimes be a bother for hobbyists, but it doesn’t have to be that way. Develop a schedule for carrying out these aquarium maintenance tasks and it will make this hobby more enjoyable..

It’s important to note that you don’t need to completely break down the tank every time you have to “clean your tank”. Most of the time you will just need to perform a partial water change (20 percent or so) with a good gravel vacuuming and maybe scrape a little algae off the front viewing panel. If you have a major algae problem then something is out of whack. You may be feeding too much, your tank may be overstocked, you’re not performing frequent enough water changes, you’re feeding the wrong types of foods, etc.

There are some basic pieces of equipment you will need in order to do your routine maintenance.   Some items that you will need are: 

• Aquarium Glass Scrubber
• Aquarium Vacuum 
• 5-gallon bucket
• Some type of vacuum pump like the Python Vacuum System
• Plenty of paper towels and
• Good lighting

 Outlined below are a few steps that you will need to do to assure that your aquarium is getting the attention it deserves.

• First, develop an aquarium maintenance schedule.  You will want to clean your fish tank at least once every 2 weeks. Once a week would be even better to take care of your fish tank and it will be easier each time you clean.
• Test your water.  This is especially important if you have let the water changes get behind schedule.  If the pH or the salinity (for Marine Aquariums) is way out of normal limits, you will need to do a series of smaller, more frequent changes until the levels are at least at a tolerable level.  Remember, even if the chemicals are way out of whack, making large changes can be more harmful than the chemicals themselves.   The fish have had a chance to accommodate to the higher levels and will not be able to adjust fast enough to the new water chemistry.  Small changes in chemical levels is always best.
• Clean your fish tank.  Once you have developed a cleaning schedule, stick to it.  Consistency is the key to aquarium maintenance.  Use your algae scrubber to scrape any algae off the front and maybe the sides of the tank. For acrylic aquariums, make sure that you won’t scratch the acrylic with whatever you’re using to clean the sides. Some use an old credit card for acrylic tanks.  Do not use razor blades as this will scratch the glass and/or the acrylic surfaces.  Turn off, or better yet, unplug the power filter.  This will prevent any electrical shocks and will prevent the filter from becoming clogged with the excess debris. 
• Once the sides are clean, you can vacuum the gravel and any flat areas for any loose debris that you may have removed from the tank walls.  This is always a good time to do that partial water change.  Each time you clean your aquarium you will need to replace about 15% – 20% of the water so as to keep the naturally occurring nutrients at optimal levels and to remove those pesky nitrates that have developed as a result of waste breakdown.
• Next, check out the filter media (i.e. filter floss). If the filter media needs cleaning, you can rinse it in some of the discarded tank water. This filter media will have loads of the beneficial bacteria needed for the aquarium nitrogen cycle and rinsing it in tap water with chlorine and/or chloramines can kill some of the bacteria, so use tank water.
• Now it’s time to refill aquarium with de-chlorinated water.  Always treat the new water with the necessary amount of chemicals that will remove the chlorine and chloramines from the incoming water. Try to add water that is the same temperature as you tank water. High temperature swings would be very stressful for your tropical fish.  Take case when adding new saltwater to the marine tanks. 

For Saltwater aquariums you will want to have the mixture ready to go at least the day before you plan on doing water changes. Freshly mixed saltwater can be fairly toxic to fish and you need to allow a day or so to allow the salt mix to properly dissolve. You can use new or very, clean 5-gallon buckets or rubber trash cans for this purpose. Mix up the salt, pop in a powerhead and maybe a heater and you have saltwater ready for when you need it.

• Once a week, clean out the skimmer collection cup, scrape off any salt creep back into the tank if possible. Clean the hood but don’t scrape the salt back into the aquarium as you did with the skimmer.  The hood will contain dust and outer debris collected from the surrounding environment.
• Lastly, clean the outside of the tank with a soft cloth and water or some type of non-toxic cleaner. 

Aquarium maintenance is extremely important not only for the survival of the fish and other aquarium inhabitance, but for your continued enjoyment.  Staying on top of those water changes should increase the health of your fish.  Frequent cleaning will make it look nicer and after all, that it what we all enjoy the most.

Ok.  So now that you know all there is to know about the nitrogen cycle, how are you going to handle the effects?

The key to having a successful aquarium habitat is testing, testing and testing.  You need to test the water on a routine basis for ammonia and nitrites, and then take action quickly when problems occur. Test kits are available for testing each of these three chemicals and well as other key elements in your tank.  Each kit will come with a guide that shows the danger zones and will offers steps to reduce these chemical before they result in loss of your fish.

Test for ammonia: With new tanks, begin testing on day three after adding the fish, and continue every day until the ammonia begins to drop. After it begins to fall, continue testing every other day until the ammonia reaches zero. It helps to plot the ammonia levels on a sheet of paper so any trends can be seen. Should ammonia reach the danger zone, (.50 ppm for fresh water and .05 ppm for saltwater) take steps indicated on the test kit chart. If at any time fish show signs of distress, such as rapid breathing (gilling), clamped fins, erratic swimming, or hanging at the surface for air, take immediate action to lower the ammonia level. Chemicals such as Ammo-Lock will quickly neutralize toxic ammonia.

Test for nitrites: Again, with new tanks, begin testing one week after adding the fish. Continue testing every second or third day, until it reaches zero. Again, it may be helpful to chart your results to indicate trends in the nitrite levels and then take the necessary steps if nitrite reaches the danger zone (1.0 PPM for Fresh water and .05 ppm with levels above .10 ppm being critical for salt water). If at any time fish show signs of distress, such as rapid breathing or hanging near the surface seemingly gasping for air, test for nitrite. If levels are elevated perform an immediate 25-50% water change and test daily until levels drop.

Test for nitrates: Nitratea are a mildly poisonous end product of the breakdown of nitrogenous waste products in the aquarium. Fresh water aquarium levels should not exceed 300 ppm. Less than 50 ppm is the desired level for saltwater aquaria. Reef tanks should be maintained at less than 5 ppm. High nitrate levels in both fresh water and saltwater aquariums will promote excessive algae growth.  Regularly, scheduled partial water changes, approxmately10%, are needed to maintain not only optimal nutrient levels, but to keep the nitrate levels in check.

What Not To Do In Case Chemical Levels Become Elevated

• Do not add more fish.  For new tanks, wait until the cycle is completed.  For established tanks, partial water changes, cleaning and the addition of commercial chemical neutralizers can help when ammonia or nitrites spike out of control.
• Do not change the filter media.  The beneficial bacteria are growing there. Don’t disturb them until they have become well established.
• Do not over feed.  Feed the fish only what they can eat in 5 min or before it hits the bottom.  When in doubt underfeed your fish. Remember that anything going into the tank will produce wastes one way or another.
• Do not try and alter the pH.  pH levels will be discussed in a different article.  Suffice it to say that the beneficial bacteria can be affected by changes in pH. Unless there is a serious problem with the pH, leave it alone.

Some call it the biological cycle, the nitrification process, new tank syndrome or even the start-up cycle. They all are referring to the same cycle – The Nitrogen Cycle. This very important cycle is the establishment of beneficial bacteria in the aquarium and in the filter media that will help in the conversion of ammonia to nitrite and then the conversion of nitrite to nitrates.

Unlike nature, where the environment is open and has a constant supply of new, refreshed water, an aquarium is a closed environment.  All the wastes excreted from the fish, uneaten food, and decaying plants have no where to go. If there is no mechanism to handle these waste products, your beautiful aquarium and all that is in it would die in no time at all

The system that nature employs in the open eco system can also be used in a closed environment such as an aquarium.  This naturally occurring system is called the Nitrogen Cycle.  

This process can take anywhere from 2 -8 weeks or longer depending on what strategy you use to cycle your tank.  It is very important that you understand this process because it will help you to be successful in keeping fish and it should definitely improve your chances when keeping tropical fish.

The Nitrogen Cycle consists of 3 stages;  Stage 1, the production of ammonia.  Stage 2, the production of nitrite and stage 3, the production of nitrates.  Each will be discussed below.

Stage 1 – Ammonia

In Stage 1 of the cycle, ammonia is released into the aquarium from uneaten fish foods, fish wastes and other biological processes. It is easily measured using an aquarium test kit and is the first reading you’ll get at the beginning of the aquarium nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is always being released into the aquarium and adequate biological filtration is needed to prevent the life forms from suffering because it is very poisonous to fish. Ammonia is thought to be the number one killer of fish in aquariums, most likely due to aquariums going through the nitrogen cycle. Measures must be taken to assure that these level are as close to zero as possible.

Stage 2 – Nitrites

During the second stage of the Nitrogen Cycle, nitrites are produced by the breakdown of ammonia.  Nitrites are just as toxic as ammonia and must also be monitored closely. Once the bacteria in the tank have the ammonia under control, there will be a high nitrite spike. Having a sudden nitrite spike can kill a fish within a few hours.

            Controlling the nitrite levels falls more within the lines of prevention although there are steps that can be taken to reduce the nitrite risk once the spike has occurred.

•  The first step in preventing a nitrite spike is to keep your tanks clean. Seeing how the decay of food and waste will raise the chemical levels in your tank, a clean tank will help prevent the rise of un-wanted chemicals.
• The second preventative measure is to feed appropriately. Normal feeding is considered to be “only what your fish can eat in five minutes”. This will help in the prevention of food build up on the bottom of your tank.       
• A third recommended preventative measure is to test water regularly. When I first start a new tank, I usually test the water 2-3 times a day at least. This way you can keep up with any changes in tank chemistry and can keep ahead of the problem. Knowing the exact chemical levels can save you major headaches in the future.                                 

            Prevention is the best method for dealing with a nitrite spike, but in case you do have a spike here are a few ways to deal with it.

•  First you can add salt to the tank. Even though it is a fresh water tank, the amount of salt that you add will not be enough to change the salinity level of the water. The amount that you add needs to be one half ounce per gallon of water. Salt will also help fish that have been injured in a fight to heal, and fish that have parasites to get better.
• The second method for helping your fish survive a nitrite spike is to increase the oxygen level in the water. By turning up the aerator, the water will become saturated with oxygen and make it a little easier for the fish to breath.
• A third recommendation is performing a large water change. A normal water change is around 10%. By completing a large water change (30-40%) you are removing some of the contaminated water and replacing it with water free of nitrites reducing the saturation level of the nitrates.  Prior to completing any large water change, make sure to give your fish the proper chemicals that they need to increase their slime coat. This will help them remain calm during this stressful time.

Stage 3 – Nitrates

The third and final stage of the nitrogen cycle occurs as the nitrites are broken down to form nitrates. Nitrates can be naturally removed by incorporating a trickle filter system that allows the anaerobic bacteria to consume the nitrates. A high level of nitrates always results from over production of nitrites which can be very harmful to your fish and flora.

       So what is a safe nitrate level?  Nitrates are measured in Parts Per Million (ppm) and for a normal operating tank the nitrate level should be under 25-ppm. If you are having problems with algae growth and everything seems to have a green tint to it, then you need to check your nitrate level.  Algae growth is accelerated in a nitrate rich environment. Although plants use nitrates, the plants can only do so much. If there is a spike in the nitrate level, the plants may not be able to remove all of it in time. Also if you are considering breeding your fish you want to make sure that your nitrate level is 10ppm or less. This will prevent the fish from becoming sick and create a stable environment for the female’s gestation period.

There are a few simple steps that you can take to manage the nitrate level in your tank.

• The first step is regular cleaning. By removing the waste and uneaten fish food from the tank you can decrease the amount of nitrite production thereby reducing the nitrate level.
• The second step is to change your water. Performing a partial water change, around 10%, on a regular basis, is a good way to reduce the nitrate level, provided the water you are adding is low in nitrates. You can check with your local pet store for their suggestions on store bought water.
• The third method is to use live plants. The addition of live plants will reduce the amount of nitrates because plants absorb and use nitrates. If you have a high nitrate level, plants alone will not be able to get the nitrates under control quickly.           
• Another method is to use a specialized filter or filter additive. This will help control and maintain the nitrate level as long as the filters are kept fresh and clean, and they are combined with other methods of controlling the nitrate levels.

             Nitrates, in high numbers are very harmful for fish and plant life in an aquarium. Nitrates can harm the reproduction in fish and inhibit their breathing as well as cause a spike in the algae level of your tank, basically choking out the natural plants that you have growing there. As long as some basic steps are followed, it should not be difficult to control the nitrate levels in your tanks and keep all of your creatures healthy.