The Aquarium Source

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Keeping your aquarium at constant temperature is essential for maintaining good aquatic health.  A tank that is too warm promotes algae growth and a tank that is too cold encourages growth of parasites.   Below is a general guide for determining the size heater you will need to keep your aquarium at a constant temperature.

Instructions:
Subtract the average temperature of the room the aquarium is located in from the temperature you wish to maintain the aquarium water at. Find the size of your aquarium in the left hand column and move to the column that shows the number of degrees the aquarium needs to be heated. If the heating requirement is between levels, move up to the next larger size.

In larger tanks, or where the room temperature is significantly below the desired water temperature, two heaters may be required. Heaters should be installed at opposite ends of the aquarium to heat it more evenly.

Example:
Average Room Temp = 68 degrees F
Desired Water Temp = 77 degrees F
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Heating required =  9 degrees F

Tank Size = 20 gallon
Heater size needed = 50 watt

 
Remember, this is a only a guide.  Feel free to contact us  if you have questions about this chart.  If you are interested in puchasing a heating system for your tank, please take a look at our wide selection of heaters at Gredens.com

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Understanding Your Fish Tank Water Hardness

            We have all seen the instructions on testing kits that tell us how to test for certain chemicals in the tank but sometimes we are not exactly sure what we are testing and why. In this article I will cover the two basic types of water hardness which are General Hardness (GH) and Carbonate Hardness (KH).

            General Hardness (GH) is a test that measures the amount of Calcium (Ca²⁺) and Magnesium (Mg²⁺) that has dissolved in your freshwater tank. Hard water, testing at > 200 ppm, is high in both Calcium and Magnesium. Soft water, testing between 50-100 ppm is low in these minerals. It is important to know that a special saltwater test is required for saltwater aquariums because the ions of Calcium and Magnesium are higher than the testing ranges for most test.

            The general hardness of your tank can increase over time and so it is important to check the water level continuously. As water evaporates it leaves behind the metal elements which increase the general hardness, when water is added more metals are added to the tank further increasing the hardness. Adjusting the level of your water hardness can be as simple as completing partial water changes using deionized water or adding a water softener “pillow” to the filter to reduce the hardness, or by using specialized salt to increase the hardness.

            Different types of fish require certain hardness levels and the following is small listing of fish and some plants along with their hardness requirements.

30ppm- Discus, arowanas, elephant nose, neons and cardinals.

60ppm- Certain Tropical fish, angelfish, tetras, botia, and community aquariums.

120ppm- Certain Tropical fish, swordtails, guppies, mollies, cichlids and certain goldfish.

180ppm- African Cichlids and certain goldfish.

            Carbonate Hardness (KH) is also known as Alkalinity and is the measure of Carbonate (CO₃²) and Bicarbonate (HCO₃). This type of hardness helps to stabilize the pH in your aquarium and with a high level (> 200ppm) your aquarium will have a high pH. In low levels, your tank water will be acidic and you will experience rapid shifts in pH. Carbonate is used by aquarium plants and consumed in the filter so this level will need to be maintained or it will fall and become unstable.

           Reducing you Carbonate Hardness is as simple as doing a partial water change and using distilled or deionized water. Increasing can be done by using a pH adjuster

            The following are acceptable levels for the listed fish. Please check the levels for your individual fish.

40ppm- Discus, arowanas, elephant nose, neons and cardinals.

80ppm- Certain Tropical fish, angelfish, tetras, botia, and community aquariums.

120ppm- Certain Tropical fish, swordtails, guppies, mollies, cichlids and certain goldfish.

180ppm- African Cichlids, certain goldfish brackish water and certain marine fish.

240ppm- Rift Lake Cichlids, certain goldfish, brackish water and certain marine fish.

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When I first started out with aquariums I was unsure about everything and even though I wanted to do things right I was a little confused about the job and importance that every piece played. Take aeration for instance, I remember specifically asking the owner of the pet store that I was in if I really needed aeration, and what it did for the tank. The reply that he gave could have been correct and he was the one who worked in the pet store so I had no reason not to trust him. The reply that I received was that aeration was only to make the tank look good and I really didn’t need it for my fish to live. Now as a kid who was just learning about tanks and aquariums this sounded good to me, I wasn’t trying to win any contest for how good my tank looked, I just wanted happy healthy fish. The knowledge that one learns through experience is better than anything, so here are a few simple basic facts about aeration.

Fish need air to live-  It is true that fish live underwater (just seeing if you are awake), but they breath air. When the water passes over their gills, the oxygen is “sifted” out of the water and passed into their “lungs”.  Fish do not have lungs like we have but clean oxygen is EXTREMELY important. The water that the fish has already removed the oxygen from is now lighter than the rest of the water in the tank and so it rises to the surface (this is where you get the surface exchange of gasses). Once at the surface and the gasses are exchanged the water particles are the same weight as the rest of the water in the tank and they are recirculated. This process continues and you have the water circulation in your tank. This process is not an extremely fast one and if the original exchange was the only “bad” air in the tank it would not be so bad. However through the natural nitrogen cycle harmful chemicals are continously produced, circulated and removed from the water in your tank by the filtration system and the “good” bacteria that is growing there. The chemicals produced by this cycle are also in the water and are harmful to the fish. When you think about all of the water in your tank and then think about the top of the water, where the surface gasses are exchanged, the top is a relatively small surface area for this gas exchange to take place. If the only water movement in your tank is coming from a filter then that is not enough movement to effectively remove the harmful gasses from the water. Imagine living in a sealed room where 10 particles of harmful gas was added to the air every minute and only 5 particles of harmful gas were taken out in that same time. Eventually you would get sick and die from breathing in the harmful gasses. Its the same concept. Now take a air hose that pumps in clean air into that room and thats what an aerator does. It helps oxygenate the water that the fish lives in.

An Aerator infuses water with air- In addition to having a really neat affect on your aquarium, the aerator actually speeds up the exchange process. When all of those bubbles reach the surface they cause the water at the surface to move making the gas exchange happen faster. Also by bringing in fresh clean air into the bottom of the tank, “dirty” water particles that come in contact with these air bubbles have an underwater gas exchange with the air bubble and are cleaned. By starting this process from the bottom of the tank there is actually more clean water throughout the tank.

Water movement is very important and that leads into an entirly different article about wave makers, pumps and powerheads.

Suffice it to say that your fish WILL live without an aerator FOR A LITTLE WHILE. Once the gas reaches toxic levels your fish will die. Even with an aerator your aquarium water will need help, that is why you treat it with chemicals and complete water changes. You have to help the aquarium live and survive. An aerator is a great option and when you consider the amount of time that you will be spending working on your tank it only makes sense to get something that is going to help you out. Gredens has many aerators as well as many bubble stones and several bubble makers under decorations. Click hereto be taken to Gredens home page.

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     Many people who have aquariums are faced with the issue of what will happen to the fish when they go on vacation. Who will feed them? Some aquarium owners have friends come over while they are gone and feed the fish and while this is a good way to make sure your fish receive the food they need there are a few problems with this method. Is that person reliable? Can you count on them to take good care of the fish? Do they know how much food your fish need and how many times a day? What will happen if your friend can not make it to take care of the fish?  And the most basic question, Does that person know what the fish eat?

     Assuming you have prepared the person in the care of your aquarium then most of these questions need not be asked. However if there is any doubt in your mind then you might seek other options.

     The Rena Lg100 Automatic Feeder is one of these options. Basically, an automatic feeder does just what it’s name implies.   This is a machanical feeder that can be programmed to feed your fish up to 8 times a day, if you desire, while you are away. The great thing about an automatic feeder is that it will feed your fish even when you are home so there is no need to feed all the time. Lets face it, with life in general anyone can forget to feed their fish once in a while. Usually what happens in that situation is we over feed for the next meal to make up for the one that was missed. While our intentions are good in overfeeding we can actually do more damage to the aquarium instead of “treating” the fish to a little extra.

      Extra food that is not eaten will sit on the floor of the aquarium and start to decay, changing the chemical levels in the aquarium. Also by over feeding your fish will eat a little more causing them to deficate more and that changes the chemical levels as well. Rotting food can cause more issues than people realize. So instead of giving the fish an extra pinch of food as a way to say your sorry, it is better to avoid the situation entirely.

     The Rena Lg100 Auto Feeder has a capacity to hold approximately 4 ounces of food and is uesd for many types of dry fish food. With this type of storage, you will only need to refill your food canister and not wory about constantly feeding the fish. A great detail that has been added to the Rena Auto Feeder is the addition of an air nozzel that leads into the food storage chamber. This air nozzel makes it possible to hook a air line up from the air pump to constantly circulate air in the chamber preventing the food from getting moist and clumping together.

     The amount of food that is to be dispensed can be easily programmed and adjusted to accomidate the number and size of fish that you have in your aquarium. So there is no need to worry about dispensing food for many fish when you only have a few. Again that would take us back to overfeeding. The auto feeder can also be attached to the tank for permanent or temporary use. Making this auto feeder great for switching tanks if you need to. Measuring 3-1/2″ x 5-1/2″ x 4″ high and including light sensors to activate or deactivate when needed this Rena Lg100 Automatic Feeder makes for the perfect aquarium companion.

This product along with other great items can be found by clicking here.

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Aquarium Substrates
When setting up a new aquarium you generally have two objectives in mind.  First, you want the aquarium to be appealing to the eyes and second, you want it to thrive.  In order for it to be appealing, you have to select plants, rocks and other decorations to suit your taste.  To keep your tank thriving, you have to make sure the chemicals are all balanced, and that you are supplying an environment that is as close to nature as possible.  It’s a balancing act to which you will have to follow. 

It’s easy to pick out colorful decorations and little plastic divers that blow air bubbles.  But most of the time, little or no attention is given to the bottom substrate.  Whether it is sand, gravel, soil, clay or some other type of decorative substance, it is vital to your new miniature underwater system that you choose the correct substrate for your type of aquarium.  Unknown to most people is that the layer of gravel and materials (aka substrate) which lies quietly at the bottom of the aquarium plays a vital role in the initial biologic cycling and then in maintaining a healthy environment for the fish and plants which live there.

Aquarium substrate serves several purposes. Primarily, it serves as a decorative touch for those who view the aquarium. It also gives the aquarium a finished look, and can be quite colorful or naturally toned. However, one of the most important roles is that it keeps the fish healthy and is also good for plants.

Aside from its esthetics, aquarium substrate provides a haven for the beneficial bacteria.  The type of substrate you should use varies with the type of aquarium that you have as some substrates are not always good for plants.

In a fish only aquarium the substrate should be no more than two inches deep. The substrate may be of any size unless you have fish that are bottom feeders, where you should consider using finer gravel. Care must be taken when it comes to the depth of substrate, especially when using a fine grade. Deeper substrates do not get oxygenated very well, and it is there where old food particles will rot and produce a toxic substance known as hydrogen sulfite.  This gas is normally produced at such a slow rate that it doesn’t have much if any affect on the fish.  However, if allowed to build up over time, the hydrogen sulfite starts to pose a greater threat. At that point, just moving objects in your tank around or stirring up the gravel will release the gas and can be potentially toxic to your fish.

If you’re planning a planted aquarium, it is best to have two individual layers of substrate.  The bottom layer should consist of a substrate which is nutrient enriched for beautiful and hardy plant life. Vermiculite is an example of a good bottom layer for your planted tank. It has properties which allow it to slowly release nutrients over time, making it ideal for this purpose. This lower layer should be high enough to cover the roots of the plants, up to two inches.

As for the top layer, you can use regular gravel or even sand will do nicely, and it should be one and a half to two inches in height.

So what is best for your aquarium substrate?   Will first, you should never use any of the highly colorful painted gravel.  The paint can be highly toxic to your fish if it were to flake off and be eaten.  You should also avoid using material that has a reflective quality to it.  Fish use the substrate as a mean to keep their balance and equilibrium.  It helps the fish to determine what is up and what is down.  Fish can become disoriented by a clear bottomed aquarium or by substrate that reflects light. 

There are three main substrate attributes you should consider in relation to the fish you choose to keep; color, particle size and reactivity with the water.

Aquarium Gravel
Gravel should be chosen for its smooth edges and inert chemical nature. Such gravels will not injure startled fish or dissolve into the aquarium water.

The gravel size is also important. 3 to 4mm is an excellent size to allow adequate water flow through the aquarium substrate. In doing so the water can be cleaned through biological filtration as beneficial bacteria feed on dissolved fish wastes. Gravel larger than 4mm will allow sufficient water flow, but it cannot provide the surface area offered by smaller grades.

Aquarium Sand
Sand as an aquarium substrate is useful with delicate bottom feeding fish. By using sand instead of gravel these delicate appendages will not be damaged as the fish scavenges for food.

The biggest problem with sand as an aquarium substrate is its fine diameter. When placed thickly on the aquarium floor, areas can form where there is no water circulation. In these anaerobic conditions no biological filtration can be achieved. If sand is the aquarium substrate you choose, be sure to use it in a thinner layer to reduce this problem.

The fine particle size is also problematic when cleaning the substrate. If water is siphoned from the bottom using a hose or gravel cleaner the sand will be lost with the removed water.

Natural Coral
Coral is made of calcium carbonate which steadily dissolves in the aquarium water. As the coral dissolves it counteracts the acidifying processes associated with decay of food and the release of fish waste. This pH buffering quality makes coral sand a very practical aquarium substrate for fish that enjoy hard water and a higher pH.

This product is more expensive than gravel and will not hide dirt due to its light color. The very light color can also be distressing to fish, especially when illuminated with strong lighting. Without dark surroundings the aquarium inhabitants can feel unsettled. They may become stressed and lose their natural color in an attempt to blend with the bright surroundings.

Marble Chip
Marble chip is another calcium carbonate based fish tank substrate. It does not have the same structure as the porous natural coral. This makes marble chip heavier and gives it less surface area than coral sand. Because of the reduced surface area, the buffering quality is less and there are fewer sites for biological filtration to be performed.

On the positive side marble chip is a less expensive aquarium substrate than natural coral and is available in shades other than white.

A few points to consider
Before using any substrate material, it should be thoroughly washed.  Fine particles need to be rinsed away or they will become suspended in the water causing cloudiness.

Many gravels and sands can be purchased from garden centers at a more reasonable price than pet shops.

When filling the aquarium with water disturbing the aquarium substrate is not only not welcome but can be hazardous. This can be avoided by placing a plate on the gravel or sand before pouring in the water.

One of the best preventative measures to guard against this is to gently mix the aquarium substrate on a regular basis, thereby releasing the gas before it builds to deadly proportions. Aquarium owners can also use nature itself to fight the problem by placing Trumpet Snails into the tank. These little helpers will burrow through the aquarium substrate, creating a situation where the gas is vented on a regular basis. This also gives the substrate better aeration, preventing build up.