The Aquarium Source

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Nitrite is considerably more lethal to fish than its closely named nitrate. There is a common cycle to understand here. Ammonia is turned into nitrite and then nitrite is turned into nitrate. Once the bacteria in the tank has the ammonia under control, there will be a high nitrite spike and once that level is contained there will be a high nitrate spike.  Nitrite is the cause of Nitrite poisoning or Brown Blood Disease that can happen in your fish. Basically your fish’s blood looses the ability to carry oxygen and it will suffocate. Having a very quick onset, nitrite can kill a fish within a few hours.

            Controlling nitrite levels falls more on the lines of prevention although there are steps that can be taken to reduce the nitrite risk once the spike has occurred.

            The first step in preventing a nitrite spike is to keep your tanks clean. Seeing how the decay of food and waste will raise the chemical levels in your tank, a clean tank will help prevent the rise of un-wanted chemicals.

            The second preventative measure is to feed appropriately. A normal feeding is considered to be “only what your fish can eat in five minutes”. This will help in the prevention of food build up on the bottom of your tank.       

            A third recommended preventative measure is to test water regularly. When I first start a new tank, I usually test the water 2-3 times a day at least. This way I am aware of any changes in the tank and I can get ahead of the problem so to speak. Knowing the exact levels of the chemicals can save you major headaches in the future.           

            Prevention is the best method for dealing with a nitrite spike, but in case you do have a spike here are a few ways to deal with it.

            First you can add salt to the tank. Even though it is a fresh water tank, the amount of salt that you add will not be enough to change the salinity level of the water. The amount that you add needs to be one half ounce per gallon of water. Salt will also help fish that have been injured in a fight to heal, and fish that have parasites to get better.

            The second method for helping your fish survive a nitrite spike is to increase the oxygen level in the water. By turning up the aerator, the water will become saturated with oxygen and make it a little easier for the fish to breath.

            A third recommendation is completing a large water change. A normal water change is around 10%. By completing a large water change (30-40%) you are removing some of the contaminated water and replacing it with water free of nitrites reducing the saturation or the poison. Prior to completing any large water change, make sure to give your fish the proper chemicals that they need to increase their slime coat. This will help them remain calm during this stressful time.

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Nitrates

            Nitrates come from a few different areas in the tank, such as excess food at the bottom of the tank, a dirty filter, decaying plant material, and sometimes even the water that we use to fill the tank. All of these areas contribute to high nitrate levels and should be managed to keep your nitrate levels as low as possible.

            So what is a safe nitrate level? Nitrates are measured in ppm or Parts Per Million, and for a normal operating tank the nitrate level should be under 25-ppm. If you are having problems with algae growth and everything seems to have a green tint to it, then you need to check your nitrate level. Algae growth is accelerated in a nitrate rich environment. Although plants use nitrates, the plants can only do so much. If there is a spike in the nitrate level, the plants may not be able to remove all of it in time. Also if you are considering breeding your fish you want to make sure that your nitrate level is 10ppm or less. This will prevent the fish from becoming sick and create a stable environment for the female’s gestation period.

There are a few simple steps that you can take to manage the nitrate level in your tank.

            The first step is regular cleaning. By removing the waste and uneaten fish food from the tank you are preventing these contributors from adding to the nitrate level.

            The second step is to change your water. Changing out some of the water in your tank, around 10%, is a good way to reduce the nitrate level, providing the water you are adding is low in nitrates. You can check with your local pet store for their suggestions on store bought water.

            A common third step is cutting back on the amount of food that you feed your fish. Decaying food or waste in the bottom of the tank is a common culprit for high nitrate levels. By reducing the amount of food, you cut back on the amount of food and decaying waste on the bottom. This paired with regular cleaning and water changes should keep your nitrates under control.

            The fourth method is to use live plants. The addition of live plants will reduce the amount of nitrates because plants absorb and use nitrates. If you have a high nitrate level, plants alone will not be able to get the nitrates under control quickly.           

            Another method is to use a specialized filter or filter additive. This will help control and maintain the nitrate level as long as the filters are kept fresh and clean, and they are combined with other methods of controlling the nitrate levels.

            Nitrates, in high numbers are very harmful for fish and plant life in an aquarium. Nitrates can harm the reproduction in fish and inhibit their breathing as well as cause a spike in the algae level of your tank, basically choking out the natural plants that you have growing there. As long as some basic steps are followed, it should not be difficult to control the nitrate levels in your tanks and keep all of your creatures healthy.

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Hood Selection

            Unless you purchase a tank bundle that includes all of the materials that you will need for your tank, a hood is an important piece of your fish tank that will need some attention. Most tanks that you purchase at your local pet store will already have a hood attached but, depending on what you are planning on growing in your tank, you may need to change your lighting or upgrade your hood.

            The lights that you put into your hood can not only draw attention to your tank but it can also help your tank stay healthy. There are different styles of lights and different intensities that can help or harm your tank if not properly administered.

            Lights, such as Lunar Lights make it easy for your fish to spawn and help create a more natural environment. There are several brands and styles of low level lights that will create a dusk lighting set-up. These lights are crucial to maintaining an equal balance that is equivalent to the balance that exists in nature. There are many types of lights for different types of aquariums and your coral and inhabitants will dictate which style of lighting you should use. Certain types of ferns require a low level lighting while other types of coral require a brilliant high intensity light. It is best to do some research on what you are wanting to put into your tank before you buy the lighting.

            If you are choosing not to run Lunar Lighting on your aquarium there are other setups that you can install and use to take the place of the moon lighting that will accomplish the same thing. A common replacement for moon lighting is to add blue lights to your hood and place them on a timer. By setting the timer to come on 30-minutes before the regular white lights and to stay on 30-minutes after the white lights turn off, that will create a dawn/dusk effect on the tank. It is important to remember that when running a set up similar to the one listed above, the blue lights need to be on all day including normal daylight hours. The blue light will help with the photosynthesis of your reef plants. There are also other types of lighting, including true moon lighting that will give your reef a unique night time look and feel while also helping with photosynthesis.

            There are several different styles of lights from high output high intensity lights for tough coral growth to compact fluorescent lights for normal aquarium operations. The operation of a healthy aquarium depends largely on the style and type of lighting that you will use.

            There are several different styles of decorative hoods that you can use on your tank. Hoods can be upgraded to hold more lights or to change locations of features such as filters or openings. Check with your local aquarium shop for specifics on their hoods and never be afraid to ask specific questions and make sure you are completely comfortable with your new product.

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Starting a tank from scratch can be a confusing process and with so many options for things to buy it is difficult to know what is needed. I have compiled this list to help you and its items will help you get your tank up and running with little trouble. All of the items on this list are explained in other articles. Just click the link in each title to be taken to the items corresponding article.

Fish Tank Shopping List

• Tank
• Hood
• Lights
• Gravel/Sand
• Decorative Rocks
• Plants
• Chemical Test Kit
• Ammonia
• Nitrite/Nitrate
• pH
• Filtration System
• Water Conditioner
• Thermometer
• Fish net
• Algae Brush
• Tank Siphon
• Fish (for an established tank only)
• Fish food

 Extras
** Depending on your situation you might not need any or all of these items

• Stand
• Heater
• Aerator