Keeping your aquarium at constant temperature is essential for maintaining good aquatic health.  A tank that is too warm promotes algae growth and a tank that is too cold encourages growth of parasites.   Below is a general guide for determining the size heater you will need to keep your aquarium at a constant temperature.

Instructions:
Subtract the average temperature of the room the aquarium is located in from the temperature you wish to maintain the aquarium water at. Find the size of your aquarium in the left hand column and move to the column that shows the number of degrees the aquarium needs to be heated. If the heating requirement is between levels, move up to the next larger size.

In larger tanks, or where the room temperature is significantly below the desired water temperature, two heaters may be required. Heaters should be installed at opposite ends of the aquarium to heat it more evenly.

Example:
Average Room Temp = 68 degrees F
Desired Water Temp = 77 degrees F
—————————————–
Heating required =  9 degrees F

Tank Size = 20 gallon
Heater size needed = 50 watt

 
Remember, this is a only a guide.  Feel free to contact us  if you have questions about this chart.  If you are interested in puchasing a heating system for your tank, please take a look at our wide selection of heaters at Gredens.com

Understanding Your Fish Tank Water Hardness

            We have all seen the instructions on testing kits that tell us how to test for certain chemicals in the tank but sometimes we are not exactly sure what we are testing and why. In this article I will cover the two basic types of water hardness which are General Hardness (GH) and Carbonate Hardness (KH).

            General Hardness (GH) is a test that measures the amount of Calcium (Ca²⁺) and Magnesium (Mg²⁺) that has dissolved in your freshwater tank. Hard water, testing at > 200 ppm, is high in both Calcium and Magnesium. Soft water, testing between 50-100 ppm is low in these minerals. It is important to know that a special saltwater test is required for saltwater aquariums because the ions of Calcium and Magnesium are higher than the testing ranges for most test.

            The general hardness of your tank can increase over time and so it is important to check the water level continuously. As water evaporates it leaves behind the metal elements which increase the general hardness, when water is added more metals are added to the tank further increasing the hardness. Adjusting the level of your water hardness can be as simple as completing partial water changes using deionized water or adding a water softener “pillow” to the filter to reduce the hardness, or by using specialized salt to increase the hardness.

            Different types of fish require certain hardness levels and the following is small listing of fish and some plants along with their hardness requirements.

30ppm- Discus, arowanas, elephant nose, neons and cardinals.

60ppm- Certain Tropical fish, angelfish, tetras, botia, and community aquariums.

120ppm- Certain Tropical fish, swordtails, guppies, mollies, cichlids and certain goldfish.

180ppm- African Cichlids and certain goldfish.

            Carbonate Hardness (KH) is also known as Alkalinity and is the measure of Carbonate (CO₃²) and Bicarbonate (HCO₃). This type of hardness helps to stabilize the pH in your aquarium and with a high level (> 200ppm) your aquarium will have a high pH. In low levels, your tank water will be acidic and you will experience rapid shifts in pH. Carbonate is used by aquarium plants and consumed in the filter so this level will need to be maintained or it will fall and become unstable.

           Reducing you Carbonate Hardness is as simple as doing a partial water change and using distilled or deionized water. Increasing can be done by using a pH adjuster

            The following are acceptable levels for the listed fish. Please check the levels for your individual fish.

40ppm- Discus, arowanas, elephant nose, neons and cardinals.

80ppm- Certain Tropical fish, angelfish, tetras, botia, and community aquariums.

120ppm- Certain Tropical fish, swordtails, guppies, mollies, cichlids and certain goldfish.

180ppm- African Cichlids, certain goldfish brackish water and certain marine fish.

240ppm- Rift Lake Cichlids, certain goldfish, brackish water and certain marine fish.

When I first started out with aquariums I was unsure about everything and even though I wanted to do things right I was a little confused about the job and importance that every piece played. Take aeration for instance, I remember specifically asking the owner of the pet store that I was in if I really needed aeration, and what it did for the tank. The reply that he gave could have been correct and he was the one who worked in the pet store so I had no reason not to trust him. The reply that I received was that aeration was only to make the tank look good and I really didn’t need it for my fish to live. Now as a kid who was just learning about tanks and aquariums this sounded good to me, I wasn’t trying to win any contest for how good my tank looked, I just wanted happy healthy fish. The knowledge that one learns through experience is better than anything, so here are a few simple basic facts about aeration.

Fish need air to live-  It is true that fish live underwater (just seeing if you are awake), but they breath air. When the water passes over their gills, the oxygen is “sifted” out of the water and passed into their “lungs”.  Fish do not have lungs like we have but clean oxygen is EXTREMELY important. The water that the fish has already removed the oxygen from is now lighter than the rest of the water in the tank and so it rises to the surface (this is where you get the surface exchange of gasses). Once at the surface and the gasses are exchanged the water particles are the same weight as the rest of the water in the tank and they are recirculated. This process continues and you have the water circulation in your tank. This process is not an extremely fast one and if the original exchange was the only “bad” air in the tank it would not be so bad. However through the natural nitrogen cycle harmful chemicals are continously produced, circulated and removed from the water in your tank by the filtration system and the “good” bacteria that is growing there. The chemicals produced by this cycle are also in the water and are harmful to the fish. When you think about all of the water in your tank and then think about the top of the water, where the surface gasses are exchanged, the top is a relatively small surface area for this gas exchange to take place. If the only water movement in your tank is coming from a filter then that is not enough movement to effectively remove the harmful gasses from the water. Imagine living in a sealed room where 10 particles of harmful gas was added to the air every minute and only 5 particles of harmful gas were taken out in that same time. Eventually you would get sick and die from breathing in the harmful gasses. Its the same concept. Now take a air hose that pumps in clean air into that room and thats what an aerator does. It helps oxygenate the water that the fish lives in.

An Aerator infuses water with air- In addition to having a really neat affect on your aquarium, the aerator actually speeds up the exchange process. When all of those bubbles reach the surface they cause the water at the surface to move making the gas exchange happen faster. Also by bringing in fresh clean air into the bottom of the tank, “dirty” water particles that come in contact with these air bubbles have an underwater gas exchange with the air bubble and are cleaned. By starting this process from the bottom of the tank there is actually more clean water throughout the tank.

Water movement is very important and that leads into an entirly different article about wave makers, pumps and powerheads.

Suffice it to say that your fish WILL live without an aerator FOR A LITTLE WHILE. Once the gas reaches toxic levels your fish will die. Even with an aerator your aquarium water will need help, that is why you treat it with chemicals and complete water changes. You have to help the aquarium live and survive. An aerator is a great option and when you consider the amount of time that you will be spending working on your tank it only makes sense to get something that is going to help you out. Gredens has many aerators as well as many bubble stones and several bubble makers under decorations. Click hereto be taken to Gredens home page.

Considering the nature of some people, we at The Aquarium Source felt we needed to explain a topic to help people think about their actions. The topic that is a major subject of debate is Invasive Species and Aquarium Fish.

          In a recent discussion about Invasive Species, it was made evidently clear that not every one knows what that is. You know the type of person I am speaking of, they just talk, everyone else knows that the person speaking has no clue what they are talking about, but that person keeps talking.

          So what is an invasive species? Leaving textbook definitions aside, an invasive species is any species that is introduced into an area that is not its natural habitat. It can be an aquatic species, mammals, birds, insects, plants etc., if you can think of it, then it can be an invasive species.

          The major difference between the normal migration of a species into a new area and the introduction of an invasive species is the lack of natural predators. Without natural predators a new species can rage unchecked and force out the normal life that was originally in the area.

          This can relate to the aquarium world easier than you might think. Who hasn’t had a snail infestation? One second your buying a cool new plant and the next there are snails everywhere. They are an invasive species in your tank. Your options are to treat the tank chemically or introduce a natural predator such as a Loach into the tank and let nature do its course.

          Turtles and fish are some of the most common “pets” to be discarded in America. It doesn’t matter if you think the fish or turtle is too much work or you just don’t have time to deal with it anymore, DON’T TAKE IT TO THE RIVER OR LAKE TO GET RID OF IT! There are many options such as pet stores, other owners or even posting them on the web to find someone who can take it. Many people are under the assumption that by discarding fish in a lake or stream, the fish will not be able to survive and therefore they should not be concerned. First off, why would you just kill your fish? Second thing that is not always the case. Fish are tougher than most people think and can take a wider range of changes. Some will even “convert” to and from saltwater fish if the change is slow enough.

          I was standing on a pier in Okinawa, Japan watching a man fishing. My Japanese was not the best but through broken conversation I was able to find out that he was fishing for puffers and he was doing it just for fun. This man was not using a normal rod and reel or even a net; he was using a pole with a ring on the end of it. After watching for a few minutes I saw that he was pushing on the puffers that were coming for the bait (don’t ask what he was using, I’m not sure) until they blew up, then he would put the ring on them and pull them out of the water. I started to get a little upset when I saw how he was treating the fish by just leaving them sitting there, all blown up. About 5 minutes later, after I was sure the fish were dead he put them back in the water got his stuff and left. Walking over to see just how many of the fish he had killed, I was shocked to see that there were no dead fish. The puffers had survived out of the water longer that I thought any fish could. Point of the story: Fish will surprise you if you let them. Treat them right and take care of them or find someone who will. Don’t just throw them out.

I wanted to write this article to let everyone know of the Grand Opening for Gredens.

Gredens is a sister company for the aquarium source and from the beginning our two sites have worked closely together.

Gredens has extended a 5% discount in addition to the sale that is already running on the store for viewers of our site. Please visit www.gredens.com and check out the selection and prices. As Gredens progresses, there will be new items added almost daily. Dont quote me on this but I believe there are around 2000 products on the site currently, and that is from one warehouse. Through the information that I have seen, Gredens has access to 4-5 warehouses all across the country, so their product list will be growing. If there is something you need but cant find it on the site, please email the Gredens staff and let them know and Im sure they have the product and it is just waiting to be loaded into the store. If you do email the staff let them know that you came to their site from the aquarium source for an extra discount.

I was also asked to extend a Thank You in advance for visiting the Gredens site and helping to support the aquarium comunity.

Now for the Gredens discount information 1) Go to the store and shop as you would for any other online store 2) When you are ready to check out put this code in the box (TAS54974362)  and 5% will be taken off of your bill.

Thanks again.

            After receiving several emails concerning general information and care of freshwater stingrays, we at The Aquarium Source decided to compile some basic information into an article for all to read. Keep in mind that this is general information for stingrays IN GENERAL. This is not information for all stingrays but may answer the questions that you have, if not feel free to contact us with your question.

          First off let me state that freshwater stingrays are NOT for beginners. The ray is a very complicated and expensive pet that requires specific tanks settings. As with any new addition to your aquarium, your new ray should be chosen from established rays. What we mean by established rays is that the ray you are thinking about getting has passed its quarantine time and is feeding. Some rays will not feed once they have been caputred.

          Seeing how a ray is a scale-less fish, you do not want to put any type of tank mate in with them that might damage the slime coating that covers their bodies, such as plecos and sucker mouth catfish. When setting up your tank chose tank mates that are from your rays natural home (most rays come from Africa). Also keep in mind that rays can grow large so plan accordingly.

          Consider the substrate for your ray. Remember that it is a SCALE-LESS fish so it does not have the protection that other fish have, rough and jagged substrate will scratch and cut the rays underside while it rest on the bottom. Care should be taken to keep the ray away from the heater in the tank, without scales they will burn easily. Treating a sick or injured ray is very tricky and most of the time it is unsuccessful.

          Completing frequent water changes will help keep the chemical levels down in the tank. By frequent we mean more often that you would do normal water changes for any other aquarium species. Rays are extremely sensitive to chemical imbalances.

          The best advice we can give on any specific ray is to contact your seller and get the exact conditions for the tank that the ray is in. Sellers who are worth doing business with will not have a problems telling you what the conditions of the tank are, that way you can do what needs to be done to your tank to match it. If the seller has an issue telling you the conditions of the tank, find a new seller, they might be the type to send a sick ray or not honor any type of guarantee they may make with a ray.

          Rays are very graceful and unique, and no matter how you look at it, they will always provide entertainment and a new level of excitement to your tank, even if they are just sitting on the bottom.

What is a UV Sterilizer?
An Ultra Violet Sterilizer is a water filtration device that uses an ultraviolet light bulb to kill microscopic organisms that are free floating in the water. Parasites, viruses, algae and bacteria (good and bad) are the type of things that are “killed” after passing through the ultraviolet sterilizing unit. These sterilizer units are also sometimes used in outdoor ponds to help control algae growth and they seem to do a decent job.

When using one in a home aquarium, the UV unit should be placed last in the filtration line. You want to first filter the aquarium water through your mechanical filter and then run the water through the UV device before returning the water to your fish tank. By first removing the solids in the aquarium water with your mechanical filter (canister filter, etc), you are helping your UV unit to attain maximum operational efficiency.

The effectiveness of any UV sterilizer is determined by the UV bulb wattage, the age of the UV bulb, how clean the quartz sleeve is and the flow rate of the unit.

UV Light Bulb
The effectiveness of the bulb will diminish with time and use. Manufacturers usually recommend replacing the bulb after 6 months. You can find units with bulbs anywhere from 8 watts up to as high as 130 watts. The higher the wattage of the light, generally the more effective it is. If you have a unit with a lower wattage then you will want to have a lower flow rate to get the most out of the unit.

UV Flow Rate
The flow rate of the unit is an important consideration. Flow rate is measured in gallons per hour (gph) or liters per hour (lph). While higher flow rates may be acceptable for killing algae and some bacteria, you will usually need a much slower flow rate to kill parasites. For example, a 15 watt bulb will usually kill algae and bacteria with a 120 gph flow, but you will need to lower the flow rate to around 75 gph for it to effectively kill parasites. Read the manufacturers recommendations for your particular unit for effective bulb wattage and flow rates.

Keep the Quartz Sleeve Clean
One thing that some hobbyists forget about is the quartz sleeve that the UV bulb slips into. You must clean this quartz sleeve periodically to remove any buildup in order to keep your sterilizer operating at peak efficiency. The better sterilizer units have a wiper with a handle outside the unit that allows you to quickly and easily clean the sleeve without taking the sterilizer apart.

Do I really need an Ultra Violet Sterilizer for my aquarium?
For indoor freshwater fish tanks that are well filtered and properly maintained, you really don’t need one. Saltwater hobbyists may have a good excuse for getting one because of the high price tags for many of the saltwater species. However, most hobbyists really don’t need one if they are doing things properly. Doing things properly would mean using a quarantine fish tank for new arrivals and performing frequent fish tank maintenance.

Outdoor pond keepers may want to invest in a UV sterilizer to help control algae problems in their outdoor ponds. To view several UV Sterilizers please go to Gredens link on UV Sterilizers and look around for other great items.

Selecting your fish

         Selecting your fish is just as important as any other part of your tank set up. There are a few areas that you must consider when deciding what types of fish to put in your tank.

Breed

            There are many different breeds of fish for both saltwater and freshwater aquariums. Some breeds get along well with other and certain breeds can not be placed together. When selecting the breeds you are going to put into your tank, do some research on how well that species of fish with react with other species of fish. I was in a salt water fish store in Raleigh, North Carolina and I was looking to buy a Dog Face Puffer for my tank when I overheard a little boy tell his dad that he wanted the “Finding Nemo” fish tank. The dad of course told the little boy that they would get all the fish and set it up. While the little boy was looking at the different species of Clown Fish, I walked up to the dad and started talking to him about what he had just promised his son. The father was new at saltwater aquariums and hadn’t considered the fish in the “Finding Nemo” tank.

The fish depicted in the aquarium at the dentist office in “Finding Nemo” are actually very territorial and aggressive and would not survive together.  Once you decide what fish you want to have, make sure you do some research to see what else you can put in the tank. This rule goes with fresh water fish as well; certain species will not tolerate others.

Health

            The health of your new fish is very important. Make sure you watch the fish prior to purchasing it or if you are ordering fish off the internet, make sure you have a guarantee on the life of the fish. While watching the fish, note any odd behaviors such as odd swimming as this could be a sign of sickness in the fish. Inspect the fish closely for missing scales, damaged fins, or any visible parasites. Talk to the store associates and get as much information as you can about the fish like how long it has been in the tank. Another key area to look at is the tank itself. Look at the bottom for and fish parts or up at the surface or near the filters. If there are quite a few dead fish in the tank, reconsider purchasing for that tank or store. The associates might not have the chemicals under control or there could be something wrong with that tank. Some fish stores have one large sump tank to circulate the water through all of their freshwater tanks and another to circulate through their salt water. Although two basic filtration systems can save time and space it does not prevent contamination between multiple freshwater tanks. Just make sure you inspect the fish really closely and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Don’t feel that you have to purchase a fish just because you are there, it would be better to go home and not have a new addition for your aquarium, than to take one home who is sick and contaminate your home set up.

Sex

            The sex of your fish is also an important choice if you are planning on breeding your fish or in a “two males can not be put together” scenario. Certain species of fish, such as Betta’s, are easy to tell apart. The males are vibrant with long flowing fins and the females are a dull grey or brown color. Other species are much harder to tell the difference and if you are not familiar with this process it can be very confusing. It is best to talk to your supplier and find out which is which. Once you are familiar with the species that you have it will be easy to tell the difference. An advanced way to tell is by a process called venting. This is somewhat traumatic for the fish because it requires you to physically touch the fish and turn them over to look at their reproductive organs. Again, unless you are familiar with the fish and this process, just leave it to the “professionals”.

Aggression and Predation

            The aggression and predation rating on your fish is very important. When you are looking at your fish to purchase, a pet store will usually offer a rating of each species of fish. This rating changes from store to store but the general information is the same. The rating will contain information about what species of fish your new fish will get along with, general behavior information (is my fish territorial but not generally aggressive?), how much and what type of food to feed it and other pieces of information about size and growth. If you are going to set up a tank with predator fish purchasing aggressive fish will be ok, provided that they do not eat the other predators in the tank. If, however you want a nice calm tank, then a predator is not for you. Also if you are going to have coral, live plants, or certain types of invertebrates in your tank, there are certain species of fish that will attack and feed on these items. Make sure you understand your new fish prior to putting it in the tank.

Food

            Food is also an important decision in fish selection. Consider what you will need to purchase to feed your fish. Is it simply fish flakes? Does your fish need pellets? Sinking wafers? Is my fish a predator that I am going to have to feed live feeder fish too? All of these items are important when choosing your fish. If you are choosing predators then it is best to set up a separate tank for the feeder fish.

Tank Selection

            There are three main areas to consider when selecting a new tank to add to your home. These three areas size, shape, and location are crucial to making your new tank a success. Each of these variables will have a direct impact on how well your tank flourishes and how much work is needed to keep your tank healthy

Size   When selecting the size of your tank you need to keep the following in mind, a larger tank is easier to maintain than a smaller one. A larger tank naturally contains more water making radical and sudden chemical spikes unlikely. A smaller tank has less water to disperse the harmful chemicals and makes the chemical build-up faster. Any of the issues that you have with the environment in a tank, such as an algae build-up will take longer to manifest due to the volume difference between a large and small tank.

            The size of your tank will also dictate what types of fish and how many of them you will be able to keep in your aquarium. The general rule of “1 gallon of water per inch of fish” applies here. In a larger tank you will be able to put a greater number of smaller fish or fish who will grow to a larger size. Certain types of fish will grow to be several inches and a larger tank will help ensure their health.

Shape      When selecting a tank that is not the normal rectangular shape, in addition to size you also need to consider maintenance. In a octagon shaped tank there are more surfaces that will need to be cleaned if there is a spike in algae. In a tank that is in a non-traditional shape, an octagonal shape will also have its limits to decorations. Most of the decorations for tanks are designed for normal rectangular tanks so you will have to consider these changes in size when purchasing a non-traditional tank shape.

Location       The location where you are going to place your new tank is an important consideration of the tank selection process. There are a few factors in placing your tank that can affect your tanks health. Factors such as placing your tank near a window or a vent can change the temperature of the tank. A window can give the tank the ample light it needs for the accelerated algae growth which will change the chemical make-up of your tank.

An aquarium filter helps increase the quality of the water in your fish tank. By running the water through the filter, you will remove all of the waste in the tank and help keep your chemical levels stable. There are three different types of filtration that need to take place in every aquarium mechanical, biological and chemical filtration.

Mechanical Filtration
Mechanical filtration removes any free floating particles from the aquarium water, such as fish waste, and food particles.

Biological Filtration
Biological filtration is the most important aquarium filtration type. Taking place usually in a regular filter, biological filtration maintains a “colony” of good bacteria that helps regulate the ammonia level in your tank. For more information please read about the Nitrogen Cycle.

Chemical Filtration
Chemical filtration involves removing the dissolved wastes from the aquarium water. Often times this is accomplished through the use of activated carbon in the aquarium filter. Activated carbon can also help to reduce the odor that stale “used” fish tank water will have. Activated Carbon must be replaced regularly or it will re-introduce the harmful elements back into your tank that it has already filtered out.

Types of Aquarium Filters
Corner Filter
The corner filter sits inside the aquarium in one of the corners or even sticks on to the glass. Although they will require regular maintenance, these corner filters can be used for all three types of filtration. The key is not to change out the entire filter material when performing maintenance, only change out the carbon and part of the filter material.

Under-gravel Filter (UGF)
Under-gravel filters are commonly found with beginner’s aquarium kits and are not the best type of filtration that you can use. Under-gravel aquarium filters can provide good mechanical filtration because it forces the water down through the aquarium gravel where particles are trapped. The good bacteria live at the bottom of the gravel and complete the biological filtration there. Once the water has been pushed up the tube into the actual filter, the chemical filtration takes place.  

One major issue that people have with the UGF is its inability to completely filter out the particles. Once the water is being pulled down into the rock, some of the particles stay there, making it necessary to constantly vacuum the gravel. If the gravel is not vacuumed regularly, then the filter becomes clogged, making a complete cleaning necessary.

Power Filter
The power filter is probably the most popular filter type for a variety of reasons, two of which are the ease of cleaning and maintenance. There is one major drawback to this type of filter; the intake tube for the dirty aquarium water is directly below the return for the clean filtered water.

Canister Filter
Don’t get sticker shock when you look at the price on a canister filter, but they are expensive because they are good quality and they work. A canister filter usually has three different stages for filtration, depending on how the water enters the canister; the order of the stages of filters will vary. Usually the layer closest to the water entry point will be made up of sponge filters. These filters are where your initial mechanical filtration will take place. Most of the large particles will be strained out of the water in this area. The sponge will also be the place where your bacteria colony will start to form and begin cleaning the water as it passes through, stage one of your biological filtration. The second stage will usually contain activated carbon and sometimes the carbon is placed between two additional sponge filters. This area is where the majority of your chemical filtration takes place. The water will pass through the carbon and the dissolved harmful chemicals will bond to the carbon particles and will be removed when you replace the carbon. The third layer usually contains some form of bio-beads. These bio-beads are the main area for bacteria growth in your filter. Stage three is the main biological filtration area in your filter. It is IMPORTANT to remember that when you are cleaning your filter NEVER try to clean the bio beads or any similar biological filter in regular tap water. By using tap water to clean a biological filter, you will kill the good bacteria colony that has grown there. If the biological filter needs to be cleaned, use regular tap water to rinse them off and then place them back in the filter.

Protein Skimmer

There are three main styles of skimmers for aquariums, the in tank, back of tank, and sump models. Any of these models can work for you but you have to decide which will be the best for your individual set up. Just keep in mind that you will need to clean this skimmer out so it is best to place the skimmer in a place you can easily reach it.

Although a protein skimmer is virtually useless in a freshwater tank, they are on the “must have” list for a salt water aquarium. The main function of a protein skimmer is to remove dissolved materials, such as fish scales or food, from the water. Seeing how this is an expensive requirement for a salt water tank make sure you shop around at your local aquarium stores and compare prices to what you would find on the internet to get the best deal.

There are other items that you can consider and research such as powerheads and sump tanks but for starting an aquarium they are not a requirement.