Water Hardness
Posted by: GHarris in Freshwater Fish Profiles, General Documents, Saltwater Fish Profiles, Tank Maintneance No Comments »| Hot: |
Understanding Your Fish Tank Water Hardness
We have all seen the instructions on testing kits that tell us how to test for certain chemicals in the tank but sometimes we are not exactly sure what we are testing and why. In this article I will cover the two basic types of water hardness which are General Hardness (GH) and Carbonate Hardness (KH).
General Hardness (GH) is a test that measures the amount of Calcium (Ca2+) and Magnesium (Mg2+) that has dissolved in your freshwater tank. Hard water, testing at > 200 ppm, is high in both Calcium and Magnesium. Soft water, testing between 50-100 ppm is low in these minerals. It is important to know that a special saltwater test is required for saltwater aquariums because the ions of Calcium and Magnesium are higher than the testing ranges for most test.
The general hardness of your tank can increase over time and so it is important to check the water level continuously. As water evaporates it leaves behind the metal elements which increase the general hardness, when water is added more metals are added to the tank further increasing the hardness. Adjusting the level of your water hardness can be as simple as completing partial water changes using deionized water or adding a water softener “pillow” to the filter to reduce the hardness, or by using specialized salt to increase the hardness.
Different types of fish require certain hardness levels and the following is small listing of fish and some plants along with their hardness requirements.
30ppm- Discus, arowanas, elephant nose, neons and cardinals.
60ppm- Certain Tropical fish, angelfish, tetras, botia, and community aquariums.
120ppm- Certain Tropical fish, swordtails, guppies, mollies, cichlids and certain goldfish.
180ppm- African Cichlids and certain goldfish.
Carbonate Hardness (KH) is also known as Alkalinity and is the measure of Carbonate (CO32) and Bicarbonate (HCO3). This type of hardness helps to stabilize the pH in your aquarium and with a high level (> 200ppm) your aquarium will have a high pH. In low levels, your tank water will be acidic and you will experience rapid shifts in pH. Carbonate is used by aquarium plants and consumed in the filter so this level will need to be maintained or it will fall and become unstable.
Reducing you Carbonate Hardness is as simple as doing a partial water change and using distilled or deionized water. Increasing can be done by using a pH adjuster
The following are acceptable levels for the listed fish. Please check the levels for your individual fish.
40ppm- Discus, arowanas, elephant nose, neons and cardinals.
80ppm- Certain Tropical fish, angelfish, tetras, botia, and community aquariums.
120ppm- Certain Tropical fish, swordtails, guppies, mollies, cichlids and certain goldfish.
180ppm- African Cichlids, certain goldfish brackish water and certain marine fish.
240ppm- Rift Lake Cichlids, certain goldfish, brackish water and certain marine fish.