Dec 25
Velvet:
Velvet is one of the more common diseases in aquarium fish, and can strike down every inhabitant in the tank before the hapless owner realizes what he or she is dealing with. Also known as Rust or Gold Dust disease, it is caused by one of several species of a tiny parasite known as Oödinium. Velvet is found in both fresh and saltwater tanks. All three species of velvet have symptoms and lifecycles similar to Ich.
Oödinium finds a fish and latches onto it; it then forms a rod which penetrates the skin and soft tissues of the gills. The Oödinium releases a chemical which destroys the cells; it then feed on the nutrients inside. After feeding and maturing, the parasite drops off the fish and divides into dozens of cells that are released into the water to seek hosts. They must find a host within 24 hours, or die. Oödinium produces white pustules on the fish that are much finer than the spots seen in Ich. In fact they are so fine they are often not seen before the fish perishes. Velvet attacks all fish and will even affect fry that are only a few days old. Anabantoids, danios, goldfish, zebrafish, and killifish are particularly susceptible to velvet disease. In initial stages the fish rub against hard objects trying to dislodge the parasites. As the disease progresses the fish becomes lethargic, fins are held close to the body, appetite is reduced and the fish loses weight. A key symptom is difficult rapid breathing.
Some symptoms of Velvet are:
- Scratchs against hard objects
- Fish is lethargic
- Loss of appetite and weight loss
- Rapid, labored breathing
- Fins clamped against body
- Fine yellow or rusty colored film on skin
- In advanced stages skin peeks off
Because Velvet is highly contagious and usually far advanced before being diagnosed, it is important to take the following steps and to start treatment as soon as possible.
- Raise water temperature to 82 degrees F
- Dim lights for several days
- Add aquarium salt
- Treat with copper sulphate for ten days
- Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment
- As with any treatment, activated carbon should be removed from the filter, as it will remove the drugs from the water.
Copper sulphate is the treatment of choice. It should be used according to the manufacturers instructions for a full ten days to ensure that the parasite is completely eradicated. Atabrine (Quinacrine hydrochloride) is another medication that can be used to treat Velvet.
Dec 25
Red Pest:
A fish that is infected with the bacteria that causes what is known as Red Pest will exhibit red “bloody” streaks on the fins, tail and or body that will resemble Hemorrhagic Septicemia. If left untreated these streaks could progress into ulcers or open sores and possibly lead to tail and fin rot with the infected fins rotting and falling off. If you are lucky enough to catch this bacteria early enough you can treat your tank with a bacterial disinfectant such as Binox. As always, follow the instructions on the medications and if the fish are not making any recovery discontinue use. Do not feed large amounts while treating your fish.
Another option is to feed your fish medicated fish food. This is done easiest by purchasing a pre medicated fish food. If that option is not available mix about 1% of a 250mg capsule in with 25 grams of flake food and your fish should eat it before the medication is absorbed by the water. Since this bacterium is inside treating the water does little good unless this bacterium is caught early. Tetracycline or Chloromycetin are good antibiotics to use for treatment.
Dec 24
Tail and Fin Rot:
Symptoms: Disintegrating fins that may be reduced to stumps, exposed fin rays, blood on edges of fins, reddened areas at base of fins, skin ulcers with gray or red margins, cloudy eyes.
Tail and fin rot appears to be a bacterial infection of the tail and/or fins and may be caused by generally poor conditions, bully, or fin nipping tank mates. If aquarium conditions are not good an infection can be caused from a simple injury to the fins/tail. Tuberculosis can lead to tail and fin rot. Basically, the tail and/or fins become frayed or lose color. Over time the affected area slowly breaks down.
First, ascertain the cause and determine if it is a bacterial issue or a “bully” fish. Then treat accordingly. Also, treat the water or fish with antibiotics. If added to the water, use 20 – 30 mg per liter. If the fish is to be treated add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol) or tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water.
Dec 24
Standard Scale Protrusion
Scale protrusion is essentially a bacterial infection of the scales and/or body. A variety of bacterium could be the culprit here, as can unkempt aquarium conditions. This protrusion resembles Dropsy without the swelling of the body.
An effective treatment is to add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol) or tetracycline for treatment. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water.
Dec 24
Dropsy-
Dropsy is a bacterial infection that damages the kidneys causing fluid accumulation and renal failure. The kidney function in fish is the same as in humans and kidney failure can kill a fish if left untreated. When fluids build up inside the body they will cause the fish to swell and resemble a pinecone with all of its scales standing out. Once the fish reaches this stage it is difficult for the fish to pull through since the swelling is a late stage sign and the fish is already full of fluids and the damage is already done.
One effective treatment is to add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol).Tetracycline in the samd dosage will work as well. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water.
