The Aquarium Source

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Ok.  So now that you know all there is to know about the nitrogen cycle, how are you going to handle the effects?

The key to having a successful aquarium habitat is testing, testing and testing.  You need to test the water on a routine basis for ammonia and nitrites, and then take action quickly when problems occur. Test kits are available for testing each of these three chemicals and well as other key elements in your tank.  Each kit will come with a guide that shows the danger zones and will offers steps to reduce these chemical before they result in loss of your fish.

Test for ammonia: With new tanks, begin testing on day three after adding the fish, and continue every day until the ammonia begins to drop. After it begins to fall, continue testing every other day until the ammonia reaches zero. It helps to plot the ammonia levels on a sheet of paper so any trends can be seen. Should ammonia reach the danger zone, (.50 ppm for fresh water and .05 ppm for saltwater) take steps indicated on the test kit chart. If at any time fish show signs of distress, such as rapid breathing (gilling), clamped fins, erratic swimming, or hanging at the surface for air, take immediate action to lower the ammonia level. Chemicals such as Ammo-Lock will quickly neutralize toxic ammonia.

Test for nitrites: Again, with new tanks, begin testing one week after adding the fish. Continue testing every second or third day, until it reaches zero. Again, it may be helpful to chart your results to indicate trends in the nitrite levels and then take the necessary steps if nitrite reaches the danger zone (1.0 PPM for Fresh water and .05 ppm with levels above .10 ppm being critical for salt water). If at any time fish show signs of distress, such as rapid breathing or hanging near the surface seemingly gasping for air, test for nitrite. If levels are elevated perform an immediate 25-50% water change and test daily until levels drop.

Test for nitrates: Nitratea are a mildly poisonous end product of the breakdown of nitrogenous waste products in the aquarium. Fresh water aquarium levels should not exceed 300 ppm. Less than 50 ppm is the desired level for saltwater aquaria. Reef tanks should be maintained at less than 5 ppm. High nitrate levels in both fresh water and saltwater aquariums will promote excessive algae growth.  Regularly, scheduled partial water changes, approxmately10%, are needed to maintain not only optimal nutrient levels, but to keep the nitrate levels in check.

What Not To Do In Case Chemical Levels Become Elevated

• Do not add more fish.  For new tanks, wait until the cycle is completed.  For established tanks, partial water changes, cleaning and the addition of commercial chemical neutralizers can help when ammonia or nitrites spike out of control.
• Do not change the filter media.  The beneficial bacteria are growing there. Don’t disturb them until they have become well established.
• Do not over feed.  Feed the fish only what they can eat in 5 min or before it hits the bottom.  When in doubt underfeed your fish. Remember that anything going into the tank will produce wastes one way or another.
• Do not try and alter the pH.  pH levels will be discussed in a different article.  Suffice it to say that the beneficial bacteria can be affected by changes in pH. Unless there is a serious problem with the pH, leave it alone.

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• The Nitrogen Cycle
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• Tank Chemistry Overview
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